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How to remove door glass on a 73?

Started by Raindem, January 17, 2018, 03:11:16 PM

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Raindem

The book procedure doesn't make any sense.  The diagram doesn't even match my door.

I have the interior panels and all the trim off.  Upper and lower door stops are removed.  I tried to loosen one of the screws that hold the glass to the regulator but it started spinning in place.  And there's no way to get behind it.  Even with both upper stops removed it only goes up so far.

I'm stuck.  Help.

Curt

Harper

wished i could help, i just do not know, try going to youtube

when i removed my glass from my sons 67 mustang to replace the window regulator, it had the vent windows, those had to be removed first, not sure on a 73 tho at all. Good luck. If i see anything that may help i will post it.
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Harper

1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Raindem

Thanks for the link but it sounds like the mechanicals are a little different from my car.

Based on FSM description of the process all I have to do is remove the screws attaching the glass to the regulator channel.  But the screws won't thread out.  They turn in place with the circular shaped thing on the other side.

I know this is a long shot, but has anyone ever removed the glass and regulator as a single assembly?

Thanks

Nacho-RT74

a total headache...

will need to remove or get free the regulator from assembly to get it free from glass channel, then get the clearence on top to get room for the channel and glass together, maybe vertically or diagonally. Maybe will need to unbolt the vertical chanels too on top of the door. Maybe even a pry bar to get more room on top of the door

Have being there... will need patiente, and will be another headache to align everything back again.

Mark with a sharpie all the bolts locations will help on reassembly aligned or close to.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

or break the glass and install a new one ( they are available ) with new fasteners LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

randy73

Just took my passenger side out as I get ready to paint, I did not need to do anything special. You do have to have the window in the right spot to remove the screws, that's it. If you want I can take pics of where the window needs to be, now I also had my catwhiskers and everything else removed.

72Charger72

Heres a vid I found when I did mine on the 72 I needed 4 hands to get everything out you may want to grab some help.
sorry had a video link to a 73 Dart You Tube but its gone now.
heres the procedure i followed with some help from 71Charger_Fan

Remove Glass>>>remove window hardware>>remove lock and handle mechanism....

and

71Charger_Fan stated this
Getting them out isn't too difficult. I recommend you stuff the bottom of the door with rags or an old towel in case you drop it and it misses the rubber block. You really just have to get out the four screws that hold it to the mechanism, lift it up, then lean it in to finagle the red plastic up stops through the door top. It's easier to take out/replace with the up stops removed, but you don't have to remove them. It'll come out with them in place. You'll have to move it up and down a bit to gain access to all four screws as I've never found a place in the window's travel where all four are accessible. There's one (maybe two) where you never do get a good angle and should have a 90-degree screwdriver (preferably ratcheting) to make your life easier.

Nacho-RT74

Dunno if you are reading he can't remove the channel from the glass because screws are spinning out ( fasteners are imposible to be removed ), so he has to pull it out WITH the channel attached.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

72Charger72

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 18, 2018, 10:19:28 AM
Dunno if you are reading he can't remove the channel from the glass because screws are spinning out ( fasteners are imposible to be removed ), so he had to pull it out WITH the channel attached.
ah missed this line Nacho

I know this is a long shot, but has anyone ever removed the glass and regulator as a single assembly?

Nacho-RT74

no with regulator... imposible! but with channel... I made it. so I explained
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Raindem

How does the channel attach to the regulator?  I don't see a way to seperate them.

Nacho-RT74

Will need to unbolt the regulator from door, and slide out the roller from the horizontal channel.

Then also loose the vertical channels on top to release the glass from those guides.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

randy73

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 18, 2018, 10:19:28 AM
Dunno if you are reading he can't remove the channel from the glass because screws are spinning out ( fasteners are imposible to be removed ), so he has to pull it out WITH the channel attached.

Or you could drill out the fasteners and thanks Nacho, missed the part about him not being able to get the fasteners out. Did you roll the window all the way up and try to get something on the back side to keep the nut from turning?

Nacho-RT74

I the screws are not spinning, yes drill them could be an option. But my bid is they are spining allong with the fastener attached on glass :p. Duno if will be posible to do it?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Raindem

Thanks for all the helpful responses.

The screws turn (with the fasteners) but not "freely".  A bit of torque has to be applied.  So drilling them is definitely a possibility.  Didn't think of that.

With the tracks in place the window can't be rolled up high enough for any of the fasteners to clear the top of the door (in order to get a pair of vise grips on the back).

The least destructive way seems to be removing the glass with the channel attached.  I'll give it a try tomorrow.


Nacho-RT74

Have you tried WD40 or something similar?

Brake fluid works too
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Raindem

Update - Using Nacho's suggestion I got the glass out with the channel still attached.  It was still an hour long fight but I got it out with no damage so I'll count it as a success.  When I do the other door I think I'll just soak those screws in PB Blaster for a couple days before even messing with it.  I did use penetrating oil on this one but didn't wait very long before attempting disassembly.

Curt

Harper

QuoteI got it out with no damage so I'll count it as a success
:2thumbs: :2thumbs:

pictures we love pictures :)
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Nacho-RT74

great...

yes, is a pain in the a$$ but doable... BTDT
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

VegasCharger

All above tips are all correct but I'll add my own here. Unbolt the regulator then finagle the regulator roller through the horizontal channel. Apply WD-40 to all moving parts tracks, rollers, channels. Then remove the regulator from the door, working it through the bottom opening. Now here's an added move. Take the glass off of the rubber block (or remove the rubber block) so that the glass can sit lower in the door shell. This is so that you can remove the weather strip (cat whiskers) and the adjusting brackets (4). The ideal is that you want to open the area on top as much as you can. This is so that you don't have to remove any of the glass hardware. With a bigger opening and no interference makes it easier to grab the glass and work it through the opening. Also loosen up the vertical tracks, soak them with WD-40 and work the glass away from the tracks and upwards to towards the opening.

Recap: remove regulator, drop glass, remove weather strip & adjusters, loosen vertical tracks, remove glass w/o having to remove any hardware from glass, apply WD-40 throughout entire process on anything that moves or needs to move.

Tip: when removing glass it won't just lift straight upwards, you'll have to roll it, angle it to clear the plastic pins. Kind of like moving furniture through doorways.

Another tip: when removing the bottom bolt of the vertical track the square head of the bolt likes to jump out of the designed caged  bracket (this is a PITA). Either torch it off and replace or take large needle nose vise grips and try to grip the head that way. But still the grips like to pop off when doing this. It depends on how much force there is when removing the nut. Patience, scraped knuckles and a lot of cussing.

:cheers:

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Raindem

Quote from: VegasCharger on January 22, 2018, 09:01:31 AMAnother tip: when removing the bottom bolt of the vertical track the square head of the bolt likes to jump out of the designed caged  bracket (this is a PITA). Either torch it off and replace or take large needle nose vise grips and try to grip the head that way. But still the grips like to pop off when doing this. It depends on how much force there is when removing the nut. Patience, scraped knuckles and a lot of cussing.

Yes, I ran into that.  Those were the rustiest bolts in the whole door.  My vise grips kept popping off but I did manage to get an open ended wrench on there.

VegasCharger

Quote from: Raindem on January 22, 2018, 02:16:26 PM
Yes, I ran into that.  Those were the rustiest bolts in the whole door.  My vise grips kept popping off but I did manage to get an open ended wrench on there.

Props to you if you were able to get a wrench in there. That would be a challenge unless the lip was folded over or distorted.

Here's a pic for others to relate. Keep in mind that the angle you would need to land a wrench in there is obstructed by the walls of the door shell. Mine was from the SW and I still had trouble with it.

:cheers: