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73' Charger Toasted Fuse Block & Wires you have to see this ! Help !

Started by BMOTOXSTAR, April 04, 2020, 05:54:28 PM

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BMOTOXSTAR

I am replacing the dash harness wiring and fuse block on my 73' Charger Rallye. After inspection I find that the previous owner by passed the 12+ from the fuse block & ran it from the starter relay to the dash cluster amp meter 12+ ! WTF ! :shruggy: :shruggy: At least they used a fuse-able link !

Owned my Charger 15+ years and can't believe I never noticed this


I am going to try and fix the connector and prongs on the headlight harness plug since the wires are nice.

Questions are where can I find the long fuse-able link wire that runs from the relay to the battery & the wire with the plug that goes to the starter? I tried E-Bay & no luck.

Nacho...this is a wiring disaster !  :eek2:


73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

Kern Dog

Make one yourself. get a section from a NAPA store and solder an extension to it.

Nacho-RT74

I told you, it was time to check it! You were having several issues. You got the tipical Mopar failure at Red and Black charging wires at bulkhead, so, don't worry at all

Fortunatelly all those parts are available now. No need to get a new full harness and even it could look like a mess, this tuff used to be easy to fix.

I'm right now in bed yet, so when I leave my laziness back ( LOL ) and will check further on this.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

OK... checking.

First, what do you want to do? restore or just fix ? Restore and upgrade ?

The initial configuration of that wiring would be this:



where the fue link is between starter relay and bulkhead conector, not running to battery. Why ? because running to batt the fuse link will be also feeding the starter motor solenoid ( not the motor, just the solenoid ), while between starter relay and bulkhead saves any load destinated to starter motor. That's the correct setup.

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

next... if you want just to fix keeping what you still have there what I would do?

-cut and isolate the red and black wires on cab side of bulkhead
-remove the red wire eyelet terminal from amm stud and isolate ( keep the black one in place )
-run a new black wire throught the firewall with a grommet ( 8 gauge ) between alternator and ammeter. dDespite the existant 12 gauge one on engine harness.
-run a new red wire between amm stud and engine bay side throught the same grommet ( 10 gauge ), and attach to it to a new fuse link, ( 14 gauge ), then to the starter relay.
- if the wire between starter relay and batt needs to be replace just get a new wire ( 10 gauge ) andcall it done.



if you get a source to replace the starter motor-Batt harness, the starter relay-batt wire should be included, so no need to replace it separatelly
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

next option... the same but using the existant black wire arriving to back of bulkhead to feed back the ammeter stud back. This will reinforce the load coming from alt in a 8 gauge wire to feed both sides of the main splice. Amm is getting 8 gauge but main plice is still running into a 12 gauge. So using both side of the wires between ammeter and bulkhead to feed the splice, will get better capacity to feed the splice and all around. Of course will need to splice a wire on bulhead side to reach the ammeter stud.

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

but this will be my favourite one which I think will be the one I will apply my on my car when reassembling... mostly due versatility to plug and unplug like factory did.

this would apply into a RESTORE AND UPGRADE option

-fix the stock alt 12 wire to bulkhead with a new terminal on bulkhead end
-run a parallel wire between alt and amm in 10 gauge wire. Since the stock one will keep in use, no need for 8 gauge on this
-use a quick disconect link ( AKA trailer plug or something like that ) 10 gauge.
-Do the same for the red wire as previous options included the fuse link

of course this will need to replace bulkhead and bulkhead plug for engine harness. Headlight harness can be still the same.

This setup will feed both sides of main splice on undedash harness

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Quick disconect links are available on several lenghts and sizes... you can get a 2 feet loop ( I guess 2 feet should be enough, I think thats the one I bought too ) and 10 gauge configuration. Cut a small pigtail section to splice into the engine side wires and the long pigtail to reach straight to the ammeter stud with no splices.



and new bulkheads are available around into $80 rate:



Packard 56 terminals can be found in bulks cheaper at electronic suppliers than any auto restorer shop, maybe in fact from the same supplier you can get the quick disconect link. You would need really just one male for the alt wire on engine harness plug and a female for the ammeter wire at the bulkhead side. Get some more for spares just in case.

New engine harness plug is also available in $15 rate. On pic seems to be in good condition, but must be burnt on the black wire location just like the bulkhead is.



Headlight harness plug is also available but I don't think you need it if you just run the extra red wire out of the bulkhead. The rest of plug on pic looks in really good conditions.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE WIRE ARRIVING TO STARTER RELAY... it seems the cover burnt or peeled off. Originally is yellow and runs straight from ign switch ( through bulkhead of course )

when replacing bulkheads and conectors, you can clean terminals with degreaser and toothbrush, then sink them into vinegar with a bit of salt for 4 or 5 hours. That will clean from any sulfated and rusted suface, then clean it with backing soda to beat the rest of acids from the vinegar.



for more, check the stickied thread you should already now
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

OH... and time to check ammeter too.

Unless the underdash harness is all hacked up, I don't think you'll need a new underdash harness in place just to fix those spots. No need to spend $500-600 when with $100 can be done and already upgraded at the same time.

aside this, I'm noticing you have 3 wires arriving to the starter relay stud where it should be just 2... fuse link and battery wire.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

BMOTOXSTAR

Quote from: Kern Dog on April 04, 2020, 10:52:00 PM
Make one yourself. get a section from a NAPA store and solder an extension to it.

I will do that. Thank you man !  :cheers:
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

BMOTOXSTAR

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on April 05, 2020, 09:06:26 AM
OH... and time to check ammeter too.

Unless the underdash harness is all hacked up, I don't think you'll need a new underdash harness in place just to fix those spots. No need to spend $500-600 when with $100 can be done and already upgraded at the same time.

aside this, I'm noticing you have 3 wires arriving to the starter relay stud where it should be just 2... fuse link and battery wire.

Nacho...I thank you so very much. I do have a different under dash harness with different fuse block. Wait until you see these pics of the wire going to the gauge ! So lucky my gauge cluster did not burn up. Also I now know why my ignition did not want to work...look at those wires !!!!

So, I have a hard time reading and learning, sometimes I have to hear it in person and see it so follow me here Nacho. I can't thank you enough once again man.

1. To keep original plug and play:

Replace the under dash harness with fuse block as I already will. I did replace the ignition, cylinder & turn signal switch.
    Then I should replace the headlight harness plug with new wire connector as well. Then replace wire that goes from starter relay. Now with or without fuse able link?

2. To fix and upgrade with doing the amp meter Mopar issue also:
     
Do all as above except buy a quick disconnect wire with both connect ends and use the + end and run it directly to the amp meter gauge from alternator post and not use stock + wire from under dash harness?

I think I can pull this off !

73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

BMOTOXSTAR

Nacho...I just went back and read over all the steps....starting to make more sense now....

Does this piece need to be tight where the connectors connect? The connectors are on nice just a little play on what they connect to.
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

BMOTOXSTAR

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on April 05, 2020, 08:22:06 AM
next... if you want just to fix keeping what you still have there what I would do?

-cut and isolate the red and black wires on cab side of bulkhead
-remove the red wire eyelet terminal from amm stud and isolate ( keep the black one in place )
-run a new black wire throught the firewall with a grommet ( 8 gauge ) between alternator and ammeter. dDespite the existant 12 gauge one on engine harness.
-run a new red wire between amm stud and engine bay side throught the same grommet ( 10 gauge ), and attach to it to a new fuse link, ( 14 gauge ), then to the starter relay.
- if the wire between starter relay and batt needs to be replace just get a new wire ( 10 gauge ) andcall it done.



if you get a source to replace the starter motor-Batt harness, the starter relay-batt wire should be included, so no need to replace it separately





Nacho....this looks like exactly what the previous owner did except the wires melted ! So that could work it is just there was an issue as well somewhere in that under dash harness
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: BMOTOXSTAR on April 07, 2020, 01:37:28 PM
Nacho...I just went back and read over all the steps....starting to make more sense now....

Does this piece need to be tight where the connectors connect? The connectors are on nice just a little play on what they connect to.

willl do reply by reply

yes, thats the brake light pedal switch... it uses to get a little bit of play from side to side, don't worry
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

looking at those pics:

-The black wire to ammeter is REALLY ugly!! I would untape the underdash harness to check it. Some wires around could get their cover a bit melted too and some of those wires drives negative signals. That wire will take you to the main splice, then to bulkhead wire

-the ign switch plug on harness... How bad is the white plug insulator ? from the distance doesn't look really bad. Terminals can be bought and replaced if you want,. Is just about cut some of the wires and use new terminals. Insert them on the plastic plug. That plug is not easy to be found but terminals are.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Male-093-093-Terminal-Contact-Pins-Pin-For-Molex-Power-Socket-Connector/251749092357?hash=item3a9d6a4c05:g:ZngAAOSwGzlTs8wY

HOWEVER the ones without the cover ( two blacks ) are the ones for the Ign key sensor for the warning buzzer which are the smaller size. Those wires handle ground anyway, BUT they are really close to the red wire which comes from charging circuit, driving positive. And both are exposed

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100PCS-LOT-MOLEX-02-06-2103-C-0-062-MALE-CRIMP-TERMINAL-BRS-TIN-SEALED/274085857834?hash=item3fd0ca4a2a:g:iowAAOSwRixdw74I

( the links are just an example of which are, maybe any local supplier could have it )

-If you are running a red wire out of the bulkhead, IMHO won't need to replace the headlights harness plug. From the distance it looks nice except for the red wire cavity a bit melted, which if you don't use IF as mentioned bypass the bulkhead for red and black wires. Yes Red wire will still require the fuse link from ammeter up to starter relay... not from starter relay up to batt

Try to untape the underdash harness between ammeter wires and bulkhead to check what do you find then decide from that. Don't worry about tape it back, its really easy to do.

Don't be afraid, they are wires, not snakes, won't bite you LOL

since cluster is out, remove front bezel, then the ammeter... Althought it looks still nice from the distance, but just in case. Is just about check the tighteness of the studs to the gauge internally and the internal isolation sheet ( one just like the black one you see on back of the housing at amm studs ). We need to prevent this:



where it should look like this:



and studs still tight to the metallic shunt inside

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

BMOTOXSTAR

Nacho,
   Thank you for the links for the parts. I am going to order soon. For headlight harness plug.

I am using a complete replacement under dash harness and fuse block. So all that wiring will be re-placed.

Only major problem is the headlight harness plug now.

So, I am going to check the cluster amm meter to make sure it is tight as you said.
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

BMOTOXSTAR

Nacho,
So, I could  to use what I have now is...

A: Keep & fix all current (fuse block, under dash harness, headlight harness) run power wire with fuse-able link from starter relay to dash cluster amp meter. Do not use the + connection from under dash harness.

B: Use the new bulkhead/fuse block I have & repair the headlight harness. Factory set up with main power coming from under dash harness to AMP meter.

Thanks Nacho...
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

BMOTOXSTAR

Nacho,
  Starter relay should have : 1 wire from relay to battery with fuse-able link, 1 wire to N Safety, 1 wire to starter relay (no Fuse-able link), then last 1 wire from engine side bulk head plug (no fuse-able link) to relay?

Thanks man !
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: BMOTOXSTAR on April 08, 2020, 05:43:58 PM

I am using a complete replacement under dash harness and fuse block. So all that wiring will be re-placed.


just noticed you posted a picture of that one!
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: BMOTOXSTAR on April 09, 2020, 10:48:02 PM
Nacho,
  Starter relay should have : 1 wire from relay to battery with fuse-able link, 1 wire to N Safety, 1 wire to starter relay (no Fuse-able link), then last 1 wire from engine side bulk head plug (no fuse-able link) to relay?

Thanks man !



Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

BMOTOXSTAR

Nacho,
   Where do theses wires go on the bulkhead harness plug
Thank you man.

73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

Nacho-RT74

sorry it took so long but I was banned from the board.

hell I dunno where it goes! whats the color ? green with red trace ? that's horn. wire is same color on back of bulkhead but:





Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

BMOTOXSTAR

Why the would they ban you man ? You are the #1 guy on here !  :2thumbs:

Without your help I could have never done this ! I have the new harness in...I just need to put cluster back in and steering wheel.

And fix those wires one engine side. Hope she starts this weekend !

Do you have the diagram for where harness plugs go for the back of Rallye Clutser with Tach?  I forgot to take a pic of the back ! All those bulbs !
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

BMOTOXSTAR

Nacho, confused on this...

Fusible link is 12ga or 14 ga. I am soldering into 10ga. It seems weird but this is correct?
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

Nacho-RT74

fuse link recomended size must be 2 steps lower than the wire you are attaching. but why solder it ? better with terminal for easy replacement. So  for 10 gauge wire, 14  fuse link

bulbs setup is pretty much straight up. Orange pigtails are usually made to reach the exact location must be, and indicator lights are labeled ( tan, green, red ). Except the brakes one which is one of a kind plastic socket.

gauges wires colors are also labeled on back of cluster. One of the diagrams above gets the info. make a zoom in.

but here a close up of tach and clock setup


Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html