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blue voltage regulator

Started by misty440, July 31, 2020, 04:18:30 AM

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misty440

Hey guys,
Why is the blue regulator recommended for race only if it provides a constant 13v? How does the orange differ? Does the orange fluctuate the voltage? I am looking to upgrading to a electronic dizzy and initially thought that my regulator had been painted blue until I found this blue one online last night. What kind of issues can the blue reg cause if used in a street car? The Dizzy kit that I saw came complete with a orange regulator and ballast resistor and harness.

Thanks for your feedback,
Chris
70 Charger R/T 440C.I 727 3.23's

Nacho-RT74

orange regulator ? don't you mean orange ignition module aka ECU ?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

misty440

70 Charger R/T 440C.I 727 3.23's

Nacho-RT74

Ok... blue regulator is supossely just for race but lot of ppl as used it on street cars without problems they could notice.

orange ECU has nothing to do with regulator. It's not a Race exclusivelly ignition module, but simply high performance ignition box. Chromed ECU too ( taking about the MP ones ). The Gold one was the one rated for Race.

ANY ignition module will be gratefull with a good alternator output source with stable voltage rate. NOW... If the blue regulator better or worst for the system? dunno, Can't tell about the facts.

Normally the street use regulator will self adjust the voltage acordingly with car requirements. We must to remember the temperature also affects on the voltage response. I guess a Race regulator will keep the fixed rate no matter whats going on the rest of the system because a Race car won't be riding around under different enviroment conditions, just the same race conditions ( oval or 1/4 mile ), while an street car will change along diff enviroment conditions.

Mostly sure those using the blue performance regulator doesn't use the car as a driver nowdays.

P.S.: I bet one of the reason of the ECU melting backing stuff ( not uncommon on Mopars ) is the lack of a stable voltage and amperage conditions, using underrated charging systems as our cars got from factory. This is just a guess
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

misty440

Gracias. compadre,
what I dont understand is why wouldn't the voltage always be consistent? i have not added any additional electronics  to the car yet but plan  to add a stereo, should I keep the blue ECU or replace it with the orange one? I have amplifiers that I planned to add to run some 6x9's in the package tray and was thinking of adding some subs in a box behind the seats but have been concerned about what issues this will cause and what would be needed to be upgraded as well?
thanks for your feedback
Chris
70 Charger R/T 440C.I 727 3.23's

Nacho-RT74

With load demand the voltage can get decreased, so regulator will readjust to keep the load. I'm not expert on this, but is more less like that.

As mentioned, temperature affects too, changing elements resistance, and even battery load recharge process.

Get a good output alt and run straight wires between alt and ammeter. Read the stickied thread on electrical section, and don't feed anything from batt side to keep the correct and safe ammeter reading.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html