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Rag joint vs. universal joint

Started by 73chgrSE, November 23, 2020, 12:35:06 PM

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73chgrSE

Looking for opinions on either replacing the old rag joint or going with something like flaming river universal  joint. Who here has done this and what parts did you use? '73 with power steering.

Thanks

John_Kunkel

"Experts" believe that the movement between the frame/sub-frame necessitates a flexible joint.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

73chgrSE

Quote from: John_Kunkel on November 23, 2020, 02:17:20 PM
"Experts" believe that the movement between the frame/sub-frame necessitates a flexible joint.

Isn't the plunge joint further up supposed to allow for some movement?

70 sublime

Quote from: 73chgrSE on November 23, 2020, 02:39:41 PM
Quote from: John_Kunkel on November 23, 2020, 02:17:20 PM
"Experts" believe that the movement between the frame/sub-frame necessitates a flexible joint.

Isn't the plunge joint further up supposed to allow for some movement?

The plunge joint is made so the steering column will collapse in a car accident and not impale the driver
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

Kern Dog

No, the shaft within a shaft is what does that.
The coupler is designed to allow some slight fore and aft movement in normal operation as the chassis flexes. The rag joint accomplishes the same thing. A lot of GM cars used rag joints for years. Their added benefit is some vibration reduction as compared to the Mopar coupler.

Nacho-RT74

The coupler allows the body flex, allowing to the steering shaft get in and out into the coupler body while unibody is flexing and still allowing the cardan function ( just like an universal joint )

The rag joint is a vibration isolation for comfort, hence why was added on 73. Lot of comfort isolation by that year. It helps on the body flex but IS NOT there for that reason

2 diff things each one with their own function.

There are several threads about that. Options by the moments are:
-Bouchillon aluminium joint, to replace the rag joint. It won't isolate but just designed to take its place without affect the original assembly. They used to make it in Poly, but not anymore, now aluminium.
-hockey puck drilled to be used. It makes a partial isolation function, but never like the original joint. As far I can tell it has been the most popular option around for years due the cost the almost perfect match to the original rag joint size and easy acces to the piece, aside the easy job to make it work: just drill the holes.
-Range Rover rag joint, which has being told is allmost a perfect match. As far I recall fits nicely. Being told at FBBO.
-Use 2 or 3 stacked universal rag joints, like the ones used on 74 models. Has being done many times and tipically the first option ever made for years.
-Get a NOS one, which are still floating around ( I think from bradsnosparts or some similar seller ) on $200 rate.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

73chgrSE

Awesome. thanks for the info. I think i'm gonna try either the range rover one or stacking 2-3 universal ones.

Now what would be the process for taking that whole section of steering shaft out. I've recently put in a new steering gear so I know I need to tap out that pin at the box and also drop the steering wheel from inside but there looks like another pin up near the fire wall too. Is that it?

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: 73chgrSE on November 25, 2020, 06:05:07 PM
Awesome. thanks for the info. I think i'm gonna try either the range rover one or stacking 2-3 universal ones.




I'd try the hockey puck before the stacking


Quote from: 73chgrSE on November 25, 2020, 06:05:07 PM


Now what would be the process for taking that whole section of steering shaft out. I've recently put in a new steering gear so I know I need to tap out that pin at the box and also drop the steering wheel from inside but there looks like another pin up near the fire wall too. Is that it?


initially just need to remove the clamp from the steering box spline. That would allow to remove the full steering column out of the car same as the steering box. Will need of course to remove the 3 bolts from the firewall bracket. I think 71/73s got an extra bracket just around the steering column attached to the firewall bracket itself ? with 2 bolts ? I think you could try that one first. The bracket itself keeps some of the column alignment and won't need to ldeal with that later. I think the extra bracket gets enough room for the rag joint to go throught the hole.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

73chgrSE

I'm gonna try the volkswagon beetle rag joint. They say its the same dimensions.

ODZKing

I have. As Nacho stated, it's mostly for vibration.
I used the Bouchillon joint and I feel every bump in the steering wheel, but it works great.
Here are a couple pics.

flyinlow

 I took the rag joint out of my 73. You do notice more vibrations.

73chgrSE

I ended up stacking 2 VW Beetle rubber ones. Wow what a difference it made! My original rubber one was so bad I had about 2 inches each way of slop in the wheel and now it feels like new again. I put a video up  on youtube of the process.