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Author Topic: Headlight motor limit switch / door position  (Read 1149 times)
BamaBoy
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« on: August 29, 2021, 08:16:30 PM »

I purchased a rebuilt headlight motor just installed and noticed it doesn't stop turning when headlights turned on as if it hasn't reached its limit to stop. I didn't want to strip gears so quickly turned off and headlight doors close but can hear a faint clicking sound in motor. Could I disconnect the headlight doors and turn headlights on to see if motor will turn off then connect the rod for the doors? I read you don't want to operate motor without a load? Would appreciate any help.
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b5blue
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« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2021, 08:34:01 PM »

What car/year?  shruggy
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BamaBoy
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« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2021, 08:49:03 PM »

1970 Charger
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BamaBoy
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« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2021, 08:53:23 PM »

The power from relay seems to be functioning correct. The Black wire with red tracer goes hot when headlights switched on the other motor lead blue wire with yellow tracer goes hot  when lights turned off.
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70 sublime
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« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2021, 04:21:42 AM »

The motor turns very fast so no load would make it smack the end stops pretty hard I would think

If it is still trying to shut the doors after you have the head lights off I think if you un hooked the square door rod at this point and hooked the battery back up it would not hurt too much to see if it stops wanting to turn
The stop switches are a bit of a pain to get set in the right spot if I recall it is something you have to do as you are putting the gear case together ( I had the one on my 70 apart a few years ago but no longer have that car )
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b5blue
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« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2021, 06:28:14 AM »

Sounds to me like the gear has stripped. Remove the motor and take a peek under that round plate.  scratchchin
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2021, 06:34:40 AM »

What car/year?  shruggy

well, actually being an electric motor, there is no other choice than 70, 71 or 72 and all works exactly the same with same motor LOL
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
b5blue
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« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2021, 06:37:04 AM »

You forget 66-67 has left and right motors.
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2021, 07:42:49 AM »

Oooops, is true LOL forgott those!
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
BamaBoy
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« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2021, 08:27:09 AM »

Thanks to all for your replys. The motor was rebuilt. When lights are on you can see the motor is still vibrating or ratcheting trying to turn more. I've been turning off once it doesn't stop to avoid stripping the gears. I understand the limiter switch is intery to the motor. I don't see why I couldn't take the door rod loose and turn lights on let motor complete it's cycle in which the motor should. Turn off then connect doors in full open position. When power is turned off motor does not fight to close more but I can hear a faint clicking sound from motor as if it needs to complete it's close cycle too?
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A383Wing
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« Reply #10 on: August 30, 2021, 01:53:12 PM »

What car/year?  shruggy

well, actually being an electric motor, there is no other choice than 70, 71 or 72 and all works exactly the same with same motor LOL

some of the smaller compact Chryslers that had hidden headlights used the same motor as the 70 Charger, I can picture the cars in my head, but cannot remember the cars names...late 70's early 80's if I remember (Maybe Diplomat or Mirada, something along those body lines)

You forget 66-67 has left and right motors.

actually, the motors are the same for the first generation Chargers, left and right are interchangeable, but those motors will not work in anything else ever made

Bryan
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70 sublime
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« Reply #11 on: August 30, 2021, 02:12:44 PM »

Thanks to all for your replys. The motor was rebuilt. When lights are on you can see the motor is still vibrating or ratcheting trying to turn more. I've been turning off once it doesn't stop to avoid stripping the gears. I understand the limiter switch is intery to the motor. I don't see why I couldn't take the door rod loose and turn lights on let motor complete it's cycle in which the motor should. Turn off then connect doors in full open position. When power is turned off motor does not fight to close more but I can hear a faint clicking sound from motor as if it needs to complete it's close cycle too?

Sure take the rod off the doors and see what happens

Myself I still think the switch is not turning off soon enough inside the motor to let it stop at the same time it has turned far enough to open and shut the doors
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BamaBoy
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« Reply #12 on: August 30, 2021, 09:15:01 PM »

I disconnected rod to let motor complete it's cycle. It moved just barely enough further then motor stopped as normal. The problem is the rod won't line up with keyway on door pins. If I manually rotate motor back it again it's short on completing it's cycle. When motor was rebuilt I'm wondering if the gear the rod passes through is clocked wrong. I've been texting the builder to see what could be the issue. My only fix would be to remove the door pins cut and weld them into a new position to line up the rod . Forgive me Mark Worman but running out of options short of taking motor apart .
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70 sublime
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« Reply #13 on: August 30, 2021, 10:19:01 PM »

Is the square rod that opens the doors have a little twist to it ??
If it does maybe turn the rod end for end to make the twist go the other way and then the motor will be lined up better when doors all the way closed or open ? 
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BamaBoy
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« Reply #14 on: August 31, 2021, 10:39:52 PM »

I had another go at it following the OEM 70 Charger manual for motor install. Pretty simple open motor to halfway position then insert torsion rod into keyway on crank. There is only 2 positions that rod will line up with keyway as it's obviously rectangular only 2 points of contact. Again I turned lights on and the motor is struggling to rotate further after headlight doors have hit their bumpers. At this point I unplug the motor remove the rod from the doors and plug in again then the motor rotates a 1/4 turn further then turns off. It's as if the limiter inside motor is not turning motor off when doors fully open. When I turn switch off doors close but you can hear a faint clicking as it needs to rotate more on cycle. Rebuilder of motor says there are no adjustments inside motor. Anyone here ever take one of these apart?
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b5blue
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« Reply #15 on: September 01, 2021, 07:14:29 AM »

Yup just take the top apart to see if gear is stripped.
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BamaBoy
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« Reply #16 on: September 06, 2021, 08:55:17 AM »

I will take top covey off today I will put the motor in the half way position first as I understand there is a cam that opens and closes the contacts that is attached to that gear. My question would be if the gear looks fine can it be removed and turned a 1/4 turn so it will open contacts earlier to avoid it fighting to open as it's doing now. My only concern was I might not be able to get it back together again !
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b5blue
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« Reply #17 on: September 06, 2021, 10:31:29 AM »

I'd just leave it where it is failing, remove and check.  scratchchin
Look here:  https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/headlamp-door-motor-69-300-gear-replacement.16654/
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BamaBoy
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« Reply #18 on: September 06, 2021, 01:19:37 PM »

I pulled the cover off and found in addition to a couple broke teeth the gear was stripped completely . Question is what happened. Paid $400 for this rebuilt unit. My guess the gear was placed wrong where it rides on the worm gear. The contacts (limiter switch) work off a cam that is keyed to the drive gear so no chance of it being off. Rebuilder claims to have restored dozens of these. I noticed the gear on that thread shows a gear that has teeth on only half which makes sense and the gear being sold on ebay also has teeth on just half. My motor has teeth on 360 degrees . I may just buy a new gear on ebay and try my luck at it. $50 for gear plus shipping. My motor is also a large wheel which is correct for a 70.
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b5blue
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« Reply #19 on: September 06, 2021, 04:17:45 PM »

 2thumbs
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6970Charger
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« Reply #20 on: October 14, 2021, 06:28:49 PM »

Hope you got it working. Question - Has anyone seen a spring on a 70 Charger Grille set up like in the Service Manual, nothing in the Parts Manual. See the highlighted part in the Service Manual. I've looked at many 70's and never seen this spring. Thoughts??? Thanks


* 70GrillSpring.jpg (245.77 KB, 1052x792 - viewed 160 times.)
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BamaBoy
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« Reply #21 on: October 14, 2021, 06:58:15 PM »

I gave up. Ordered a part from Topher to replace damaged gear. Switches have placement issue won't close now. I sent motor to Topher. Hopefully he will have it going. Haven't seen the spring on my setup .
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Seabeckredneck
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« Reply #22 on: December 16, 2021, 02:30:21 AM »

  Who is Topher? I was thinking about contacting him to see if he could help convert the Superbird vacuum headlight system to an electric motor system. Anybody have any experience with this?

  Thanks!
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70 sublime
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« Reply #23 on: December 16, 2021, 06:14:56 AM »

  Who is Topher? I was thinking about contacting him to see if he could help convert the Superbird vacuum headlight system to an electric motor system. Anybody have any experience with this?

  Thanks!

I have thought about trying this on my clone project also but have you seen how fast a 70 Charger pops the doors open ? 
Do not think using this motor the same way as on a 70 Charger would be a good idea as it would break something me thinks
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b5blue
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« Reply #24 on: December 16, 2021, 07:32:23 AM »

Looks like Nosecone headlights would weigh quite a bit more than 70 headlight doors to me?  scratchchin
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