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upper control arms

Started by RTSE440, April 10, 2022, 12:26:24 AM

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RTSE440

Hello all just wondering if anyone has had trouble with the ball joints on the upper control arms coming loose ?. as i you they make their own thread as you screw them in.I was told they can come loose if put back on an old arm because of the material lost around the ball joint area from the original thread cut is there any truth in this or nothing to worry about ? or is there a fix for this

Kern Dog

The fix is as simple as a few tack welds around the perimeter.

RTSE440

Are you saying prior to installing the ball joint or tack the ball joint to the arm?

70 sublime

I have taken old ones out and cranked in new ones about 10 000 miles ago and have had no issues
Yes I used a 6 foot long pipe on my breaker bar handle to take apart and put back together
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: RTSE440 on April 10, 2022, 12:39:16 AM
Are you saying prior to installing the ball joint or tack the ball joint to the arm?

He says tack the ball joint to the arm. That's the easier way. Very tipical fix made since ever in Venezuela too. 2 or 3 tacks should be enough.

Another method I thought off quite ago it was make a cut or two on the ball joint receptacle/sleeve at UCA, really THIN cuts, maybe with a dremmel disc, close the gaps ( try to make it even all around ), weld it and thread in the new ball joint. Control arms are not threated, but the ball joint opens its own thread while is being screwed in.

Or... also apply some heat and lead inside the LCA "sleeve" to "fill it". I think this last one is be the less agressive and pretty much enough if you are worry about.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

RTSE440

 Some interesting ideas I'm not real keen in welding Nos ball joints in but thanks for the suggestion kern dog & the ball joint may very well be okay just to re-thread back in  & more than likely have no issues as sublime suggested.But the little cuts on the uca and re-weld is a very interesting idea as it may well be just enough to give that ball joint that locking tightness nacho very interesting indeed. Thanks guys some very interesting ideas as always & it's great to have a community as on this web site with friends always willing to help a fellow member out.  Thanks again

b5blue

Cheaper to just buy new fully loaded UCA's. (Google them for best cost.)

Bronzedodge

Quote from: RTSE440 on April 10, 2022, 12:26:24 AM
I was told they can come loose if put back on an old arm because of the material lost around the ball joint area from the original thread cut is there any truth in this or nothing to worry about ? or is there a fix for this

With the correct socket, I've never had a problem.  I put a light coat of grease on the threads and make sure the new ball joint is square in the opening.  Never a problem.   
Mopar forever!

JB400

If you don't want to buy new control arms, you can buy just the sleeves and have them welded in to your original arms

Nacho-RT74

The cut and weld idea is for those who already got a failed UCA. I wouldn't make it on a non failed UCA. If you get correctly threated in the new Ball joint just install and enjoy.

I'd try the lead filling first thought

Quote from: JB400 on April 10, 2022, 12:56:49 PM
If you don't want to buy new control arms, you can buy just the sleeves and have them welded in to your original arms

Are they available?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html


Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

GreenMachine

Quote from: b5blue on April 10, 2022, 11:19:21 AM
Cheaper to just buy new fully loaded UCA's. (Google them for best cost.)

The cheap price is tempting, have you used them? Are they the same thickness as original? I remember reading about one failure, but can't remember what failed, maybe it cracked?

Either way, if OP has NOS ball joints, I doubt he's interested in aftermarket stuff.
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

b5blue

Yea they work just fine. Someone had an issue with a loose ball joint but just check them when they arrive. They are loaded and finish is very nice. Been on my car over 3 years.

RTSE440

Thanks all with the great reply's but as green machine mentioned i have nos ball joints which i wish to fit as all my front end has all nos besides the rubbers stuff of course.I did look at purchasing a set of the reproduction c/a but couldn't order them without the ball joints already fitted which defeats the purpose of getting new control arms if they are cut already as i don't have too much faith in reproduction stuff i may as well use my originals which I'm leaning towards.   

Kern Dog

I have read that the reproduction control arms are made from a thinner gauge metal.
No, thanks.

Mike DC

  
I was about to comment on that.  

The repro industry has some kind of religious beef against original-quality steel.  

It's not only the thickness of the metal, but also the alloy content.