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K member isolators (73/74 )

Started by Nacho-RT74, June 07, 2006, 07:20:21 PM

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Nacho-RT74

The 73/74 K members isolators are starting to go bad, and several clunks are hearing down my car. I checked and also the internal bushings and mettalic plates are badly rusted so I need to make them. Since they are not available as NOS not even Repros up there ( on black rubber ) I have to use some regulat quality repros made in here. But that's only the rubber sections.

As far the metalic parst of these isolators, I need to make the internal square and long bushing welded on to a top Big "washer" or plate. That's easy since my uncle works with metalic parts and I have a pair in good conditions to reproduce them, BUT I removed one of the isolators and DID LOOK THAT HAD somekind of plate between the top section of isolator and K member itself. What I want to mean is that the rubber isolator between K member and Frame rails has also metallic insert/washer/plate making somekind of "sandwich" with the upper isolator section.

Is really on that way ?

Look at pic... I'm asking for the plate between question marks
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

doctorpimp

You could go for solid aluminum isolators avail from MP or eBay...
Not too sure about the metal spacer you have shown.  I have seen one like that on the front K iso, but not on the rears of my parts car.  I haven't taken the K out of my car yet.
:icon_smile_cool:
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

Nacho-RT74

all 4 corners use the same assembly ( front and rear ). I checked PN on my 74 catalog and is the same to all 4 pieces

I can go with anykind of spacer/"isolator" since as stated is my uncle bussines, but I'm going with "stock"

Is not really an spacer, is somelike a plate with an elongated collar where upper section of isolator enters.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

doitmopar

 ;DI got a good set of isolators from Summit Racing 2 years ago.I think they where about $85.00 plus shipping,they worked great. :icon_smile_cool:

RallyeMike

I believe poly ones are available. It will take part of the "squishy" feel away from your 74.


http://www.justsuspension.com/
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

WH23G3G

I got mine from Prothane. They are in black polyurethane and have all the hardware except shims and the bolts. It cost about $50-$60. They feel super stiff compared to the rubber ones on it originally. I would expect it to be a stiff ride once I get it and all the other polyuretahne suspension bushings on.

Chargerguy74

i used a poly kit for mine, shortly after I installed them i found out about the aluminum ones.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Nacho-RT74

I will stick with rubber aftermarket locally made. They are harder than originals, but I had to make by myself the bushings. My doubt is/was about the collar or plate between the K member and upper isolator. The ones made in here are with a ovalated collar vulcanized (sp ?... I want to mean is casted in the rubber itself ) but without a washer or plate, just the collar
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

o1gnah

New member here! Picked up my first 73' Charger just over a month ago and have been locating things in need of attention. The one issue that's really got me cringing is this. The k member is rusted out on the drivers side as is the torsion bar snapped. Yikes I know. I was able to find replacement torsion bar but am looking into options suggestions as to how to replace/weld or what can be done to resecure the k member part of the frame. Thanks

doctorpimp

Quote from: o1gnah on January 29, 2022, 06:20:55 AM
New member here! Picked up my first 73' Charger just over a month ago and have been locating things in need of attention. The one issue that's really got me cringing is this. The k member is rusted out on the drivers side as is the torsion bar snapped. Yikes I know. I was able to find replacement torsion bar but am looking into options suggestions as to how to replace/weld or what can be done to resecure the k member part of the frame. Thanks

You need to find a new K member
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

o1gnah


o1gnah

Found this on the gram but haven't got a response as to what it's called where to obtain who makes dah dah duh

https://www.instagram.com/p/B9x3TVFg9Ly/?utm_medium=copy_link

o1gnah

I've come along way. I almost have my k member removed from the frame rail. Ran into a hiccup. The good news is the front mounts dropped straight out with impact gun. The rear that caused me to tackle this job (drivers side) rusted bushing mount (culprit) bolt head snapped and is still lodged in the frame rail. Passenger side rear mount is loose but is just spinning as if there is a nut inside the frame rail that needs to be held still.hmmm...

The front does have small holes in the side of the frame rail and I can finger a small flat rectangular nut. There is no hole on rear should I assume it's the same? If so or if not been reading about cutting a small square window to pear in and find out what going on. Thanks for the help in advance. Post picks as soon as the transfer from iPhone to iPad

(Photo 1): passenger side front mount
(Photo 2): driver side front mount
(Photo 3) snapped bolt head from rear drivers side mount
(Photo 4) same as photo 3 with cross member visible
(Photo 5) passenger side rear mount w/spinning bolt
(Photo 6) same as photo 5 close up
(Photo 7) passenger side rear mount bolt head that spins
(Photo 8) front frame rail hole with what I think is a flat rectangular nut

E5 Charger

One of my bolts was also just spinning. I cut the head off to remove the k-frame and then followed this youtube to remove it. Worked great! just be sure to soak it in penetrating oil after you weld everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fi5RKRQz7NI