Some considerations about the charging and wiring upgrade and your worries about

[Nacho-RT74]

You can duplicate the stock system specially if loads remain the same ( no extra accesories added ). But if you are to upgrade why use the same gauge on the parallel wire ?. I initially used 8 gauge wire on my car for the black one and 10 for the red one but just because I had at home those gauges on those colors. I could use 10 gauge on black too which with the 12 gauge wire still in use is plenty for my car.

BUT the wire thickness goes to each own according with the electrical loads on car. Still needs to take in mind if the alt is able to provide the more power as posible at the minimun speed as posible

[Nacho-RT74]

deleted... I posted some stuff on wrong thread ( what it happens with several tabs open LOL )

[Jonas_N]

Posting my results:

After reading through tons of posts/articles about the 2nd gen Charger wiring I decided to go with the Amp gauge system from this thread (Thanks Nacho).

I replaced ALL the wiring/connectors/switches in the car and ran a 8 gauge wire directly from the Alt to the Amp gauge. I also ran a 10 gauge to battery post on starter relay. (Both through a rubber grommet in the firewall.)
I bought a new OER Amp gauge that to my surprise has a beefier metal part than the original one where the current pass through the gauge. (I wish I had taken pics before the install to compare.)
The new Alt I put in is a 95A Powermaster.
Nothing extra is connected on the battery side of the Amp gauge.

The black wire under the dash that goes between the bulk head connector and the splice was looped back to the Amp gauge.
Instead of the paper insulators for the Amp gauge I made insulators of printed circuit fiber boards, for both of them.
When starting the car the Amp gauge fluctuates at 0 a bit to the ALT side of the gauge, this is at 650 rpm....when upping the idle to 750 the Amp gauge is dead still just a bit to the right of the 0 mark.
When turning off the car the electric fan runs for 6 seconds and I can see it draw about 20 Amps on the battery.

So with upping the idle a bit I have a dead solid Amp gauge needle just to the right of the zero mark.
The charge at the battery with the engine running reads 14.3 Volts at idle and 14.7 Volts when revving.

So far so good.  

Extra note:
The car is fully LED equipped (headlights, interior etc) and the Amp gauge does not move when all lights are on with the engine off. So very little draw there.

[Nacho-RT74]

Barelly now noticed your update! Good to know!

Is normal the ammeter could read barelly passing the center line to the charge side revving up specially if you get the opposite at iddle for long time. It takes more time to charge than discharge.

[calvin111347]

hats off to nacho found this article 1979 dodge w150 owned since new would like to know along time ago i ran a dedicated 8ga wire from 100 amp alternator which was an upgrade to starter relay never had problems installed new motor checking everthing out found i had 18.6 volts at battery replaced voltage regulator dropped to 15.7 then i noticed amp meter was in discharge after checking wiring and bulkhead for corrosion or heat i tryed disconnecting 8 ga wire amp meter returned to normal stayed stable during load so what happened am planning long road trip from michigan to new mexico adding led lights and possible electric fans for cooling giving truck to my son so running 8 ga wire through firewall and tying into black wire at amp meter will allow amp meter to function and eliminting heat build up and possible fire hoping nacho will way in concerned additional loads will over tax system any advise would be appreciated truck also has winch use to run 2 batteries got to old for off road thank you great article

[Nacho-RT74]

Wow! Some punctuation will help a littel bit!

Ok, first of all, I don't know if trucks also changed from the full load ammeters to the shunted system ammeter like most Mopars did on around 75/76 ( 71 I think on Chryslers ) so before get you an opinion, will be better to check for that!

[b5blue]

70 up many overlook the key in column wire connector, the big red weak point wire. Look for the toasty brown connector tell tale.  I use 35amp control relays under the hood.

[jlatessa]

I Just eliminated the original connections for the heavy load carrying wire with
heavy duty ring connectors, soldered, bolted and shrink tubed.

Easy solution....Joe

[b5blue]

I use this home and auto: https://www.kinginnovation.com/category-pages/products/alumiconn.php

[Nacho-RT74]

for the ign switch harness, a friend from FBBO shown me this solution which I LIKE a lot

Anderson powerpoles

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors

they can be stacked on and in colors ( white if you want to emulate the original look stacking up those )