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Author Topic: '68/'69 Grille header restoration; any suggestions?  (Read 2421 times)
hemi68charger
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Winged Duo..


« on: June 24, 2008, 06:14:27 AM »

Hey gang..
I'm getting my '68 Charger R/T home soon from the paint shop and need to finish off things now to reinstall.. Any pointers on stripping, priming and painting the grille header here? Simple sanding isn't going to cut it....

Troy


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Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
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Charger-Bodie
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« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2008, 06:35:06 AM »

I would sandblast it, primer sealer it, and paint it.
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
six-tee-nine
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'69 R/T white - red stripe


« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2008, 02:44:00 PM »

I'm gonna send mine out wirht some other stuff to get is blasted and powder coated.

Remember this thing is pretty much in sight when you pop the hood, so you better handle it the right way.
As said above is a good option too, but not when you have to paint it with a rattle can (too large) and it will get full of dust. Tha method is only succesful if you have acces to a spray gun and the space to get going with it....
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Winged 1
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« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2008, 05:58:50 PM »

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Go with blasting and powder coat. Going to last the longest and hold up the best..
Eric
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Charger-Bodie
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« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2008, 06:20:26 PM »

icon_smile_big
Go with blasting and powder coat. Going to last the longest and hold up the best..
Eric


Powder coat will be thick and it will look Phony because it will fill the character marks and spot welds etc. Not a good place for powder coating. Twocents
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
69 OUR/TEA
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« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2008, 08:24:33 PM »

icon_smile_big
Go with blasting and powder coat. Going to last the longest and hold up the best..
Eric


Powder coat will be thick and it will look Phony because it will fill the character marks and spot welds etc. Not a good place for powder coating. Twocents
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† † † I† 2nd that. Twocents
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69bronzeT5
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« Reply #6 on: June 25, 2008, 03:45:02 PM »

icon_smile_big
Go with blasting and powder coat. Going to last the longest and hold up the best..
Eric


Powder coat will be thick and it will look Phony because it will fill the character marks and spot welds etc. Not a good place for powder coating. Twocents
† † † † †
† † † I† 2nd that. Twocents

I 3rd that. I'd blast it and paint it with a spray gun.

Btw, nice Plymouth Cheesy
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1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1971 Charger R/T: B5 Blue 440 Automatic
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
Corellian Corvette
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« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2008, 10:24:18 PM »

I disagree completely. Considering that mine has been blasted and powder coated, and the spot welds and other details pop perfectly, I'm not sure why people think it's some thick molasses.

Good powdercoating will be very thin and will not mask ANY metal imperfections or pits. Since there is no filler, etc. like a primer would have with paint, every detail comes through.

On a nice virgin piece of metal, powdercoating will look FANTASTIC. If you have major dents, scratches, or pitting powdercoating will NOT fill those imperfections in.

However, itís going to look GREAT, wonít scratch, wonít be susceptible to any oils or grease, and wonít allow rust through. Iíve had most of my major body components (Dash frame, brackets, grille frame, hinges, braces, bumper brackets) powdercoated and they look amazing and are infinitely more durable. It also gets in cracks and areas you could never get with paint.

Take a look at my original A/C Air Cleaner that I had done. This thing was COVERED in grease, oil, 10 layers of paint. It looked TERRIBLE and I was afraid I was going to have to get another one. Tell me this doesnít have the most minute details popping out, including the indentations for the spot welds.



Here is my complete dash frame done. Again, look how much detail you can see, and no paint drips or anything. Also Ė there is not one ounce of rust on any part Ė and there is coating up inside the frame and in every nook and cranny.



I had all the parts in that picture blasted and coated. Total cost = $150. Total amount of my time taken = 0min.  Wink

Grab up every piece of metal you have and take it down to your local coater. I highly recommend it.
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69*F5*SE
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« Reply #8 on: June 27, 2008, 06:20:50 AM »

I have to admit.....it does look pretty good and with the right sheen.
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runningman
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« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2008, 12:07:44 PM »

Is that just a satin black?  Looks pretty nice, I have had a few pieces powdercoated as well and have been very happy so far
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #10 on: July 05, 2008, 08:36:29 PM »

icon_smile_big
Go with blasting and powder coat. Going to last the longest and hold up the best..
Eric


Powder coat will be thick and it will look Phony because it will fill the character marks and spot welds etc. Not a good place for powder coating. Twocents
† † † † †
† † † I† 2nd that. Twocents
I powder coated mine and it looks thin and fantastic.  I did a thread on it before, my brother in law used a powder coat called E coat.  Thin and semi flat, looks original as can be.  I'll locate thread and pics.

FOUND IT!  Check out these pictures, looks great.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,35430.0.html


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hemi68charger
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Winged Duo..


« Reply #11 on: July 07, 2008, 12:39:14 PM »


I had all the parts in that picture blasted and coated. Total cost = $150. Total amount of my time taken = 0min.  Wink

A continued thanks to all........ $150 for all that? Now, that's definitely worth it... Did you clean all the parts and strip them down first or is that done as part of the powder coating process?

Cheers,
Troy
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Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection
Finn
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« Reply #12 on: July 07, 2008, 01:20:22 PM »

 drool5 I'm having my dash powder coated with some other parts but now I'm really thinking about tearing down my grille again to have the frame done.
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1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #13 on: July 08, 2008, 07:22:34 AM »


I had all the parts in that picture blasted and coated. Total cost = $150. Total amount of my time taken = 0min.† Wink

A continued thanks to all........ $150 for all that? Now, that's definitely worth it... Did you clean all the parts and strip them down first or is that done as part of the powder coating process?

Cheers,
Troy
I dropped my stuff off at the powder coating shop and he sent them out to be sandblasted and then did his work.  The sandblasting price was just added to the total cost.
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Corellian Corvette
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« Reply #14 on: July 09, 2008, 12:22:59 AM »

Same here. The guy I use also sends the stuff out to be blasted - so it all gets added together. Since I'm using a coating that the guy is running though most of his stuff already, he really doesn't care if he has to throw more stuff in - it only gets more expensive if he has to do a special color and change out the gun. It's all free cash for this guy so I get a good deal.  icon_smile_big
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Silver R/T
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1968 Dodge Charger R/T


« Reply #15 on: July 09, 2008, 09:38:52 PM »

Ive stripped mine, welded up any holes that someone put on there (not factory), filled, primered and painted correct semi gloss black.


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http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722
Silver R/T
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« Reply #16 on: July 09, 2008, 09:50:01 PM »

icon_smile_big
Go with blasting and powder coat. Going to last the longest and hold up the best..
Eric

I would also, it will resist abrasion, chemicals, moisture. Cant go wrong with powder coat.
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722
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