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Author Topic: SELF ETHING PRIMER THEN POLURETHANE PRIMER  (Read 14067 times)
MORFF
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« on: March 15, 2010, 02:53:13 AM »

Got A QUESTION FOR THE VETS i AM STARTING ON MY Project 1969 DODGE CHARGER. I basicly have surface rust with some panels need replacing I started on my right front wheel well i got the engine compartment dont. The whole car is a shell with 90 pecent of the parts in basement. Before I too far wanted to ask you guys a question. I am striping the interal parts like wheel wells engine compartment and the underbody i am got a guy to do the outside. I am stripping it to a bare metal then using self etching primer (sem 39683gray). Then wanted to use polyurethane primer for the final primer prior to final pant. Does anybody see trouble down the road if i do this?  

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Mike O.
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Mike O
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« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2010, 03:53:35 PM »

Read the tech sheet on the urethane primer you are using, it should tell you on there. I would suggest using an epoxy over the bare metal, instead of the etching primer.

Jason
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Silver R/T
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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2010, 04:24:31 PM »

Read the tech sheet on the urethane primer you are using, it should tell you on there. I would suggest using an epoxy over the bare metal, instead of the etching primer.

Jason

x2 on epoxy primer
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1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722
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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2010, 05:37:04 PM »

Thanks for the info I am trying to post pics of my car on the site so you guys can see it but it keeps saying my pics are to large in size anybody know how to shink the pic size
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Mike O
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69 - R/T SE - Y2-CRX-V1T-V88


« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2010, 06:09:10 PM »

this is how i resize  mine !  prolly not the best way but works for me & are plenty big enough to see on here  yesnod works for me !!


http://www.picresize.com

follow instructions ,  on section 2 , click custom , then change the box to pixels & type in 600 in the width box  , then click resize
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Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might to see in below threads !

Charger Stuff 
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.0.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html
Silver R/T
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« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2010, 06:22:24 PM »

you can use http://imageshack.us/ to upload/host your images
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1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722
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« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2010, 06:49:02 PM »

lETS SEE IF IT WORKS


* rsz_11969_dodge_charger_001[1].JPG (106.03 KB, 816x612 - viewed 1216 times.)
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Mike O
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« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2010, 07:01:06 PM »

Here is some more pics


* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_019[1].JPG (52.65 KB, 816x612 - viewed 1220 times.)
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Mike O
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« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2010, 07:14:43 PM »

more pics


* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_005.jpg (174.67 KB, 816x612 - viewed 1293 times.)
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Mike O
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« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2010, 07:30:34 PM »

I would have whole car soda blasted/dipped and then epoxy primer whole car.
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1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722
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mopar or no car


« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2010, 07:52:07 PM »

How do you plan on going about removing the surface rust & stripping to bare metal? LEON.
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DC_1
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« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2010, 08:05:35 PM »

I would have whole car soda blasted/dipped and then epoxy primer whole car.

Soda won't take that off. Find a trust worthy blaster who uses fine crushed glass. They should be able to take that off without warping panels.
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« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2010, 06:47:01 AM »

Got a off the wall question for the vets again I need a tranny and a engine down the road i have a 727 auto for big block that some one gave me i was going to sell or trade it for a 4 speed manual put it with a 440. Some one told me there was a 1971 cuda with a v10 viper engine in it that beat a fierri that was in a mopar mag. I was wondering sense i dont have a engine or tranny how much wireing mess and hassale would it be posible to put a viper engine and a 6 speed trany in my car. I heard I could get a engine and tranny on ebay for like 7,000. I was thinking 5oo hp do not need to do any extra engine mods but could my frame handle it and would i have to re-inforce everything. am i crazy or could it happen
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Mike O
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« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2010, 06:50:43 AM »

Engine bay only passenger side done camera died i have finished driver side but no pic yet


* rsz_11969_dodge_charger_021.jpg (121.02 KB, 816x612 - viewed 1240 times.)
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Mike O
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« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2010, 07:46:13 AM »

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,54842.0.html
all your viper questions
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'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
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« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2010, 02:35:25 PM »

Nice work man You Make it look so easy with that viper engine wow know i know that it is posible lot of work wow
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Mike O
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« Reply #16 on: March 25, 2010, 06:34:49 AM »

Front end in primer other than k-frame going to sand blast that


* 1969 dodge charger 016.JPG (72.44 KB, 816x612 - viewed 1128 times.)

* 1969 dodge charger 018.JPG (56.71 KB, 816x612 - viewed 1099 times.)

* 1969 dodge charger 019.JPG (66.36 KB, 816x612 - viewed 1095 times.)
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Mike O
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« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2010, 10:26:41 PM »

I would have whole car soda blasted/dipped and then epoxy primer whole car.

Soda won't take that off. Find a trust worthy blaster who uses fine crushed glass. They should be able to take that off without warping panels.
How much pressure does it take to start warping panels? I'm at about the same place starting my engine bay.  Not much rust but I bought some fine sand and started using a siphon feed bucket with maintaining 80-100 psi on a home shop compressor.    Just started using it on what surface rust was there mostly around the battery, some firewall spots,  and into some corner areas but have a majority of it left.  Other than the rust and paint removal I don't see much else happening.  I can buy the glass for twice the price of the sand but using a home compressor verses a commercial high pressure how much is it of a concern?  Haven't blasted outside my glass bead cabinet before on car sheet metal so I would like to see what level of sand blasting are we referring to.
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DC_1
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« Reply #18 on: March 27, 2010, 08:31:39 AM »

I would have whole car soda blasted/dipped and then epoxy primer whole car.

Soda won't take that off. Find a trust worthy blaster who uses fine crushed glass. They should be able to take that off without warping panels.
How much pressure does it take to start warping panels? I'm at about the same place starting my engine bay.  Not much rust but I bought some fine sand and started using a siphon feed bucket with maintaining 80-100 psi on a home shop compressor.    Just started using it on what surface rust was there mostly around the battery, some firewall spots,  and into some corner areas but have a majority of it left.  Other than the rust and paint removal I don't see much else happening.  I can buy the glass for twice the price of the sand but using a home compressor verses a commercial high pressure how much is it of a concern?  Haven't blasted outside my glass bead cabinet before on car sheet metal so I would like to see what level of sand blasting are we referring to.

Pressure is part of it but the type of media is also the problem. Glass breaks down and virtually disintegrates on impact. That helps disperse the energy and not create as much heat. Sand is more aggressive and the energy creates heat in the panel. That's not to say you can not use sand, it is just easier to cause warping problems than with glass bead. If you are using sand keep the pressure down is one thing but also don't blast the panel head on, always at a angle. Also, especially in larger flat areas, keep the nozzle moving so as to minimize heat build up in the area you are blasting. There are a lot of professional basters that do cars all the time with only sand and have no issue with warping.

Good luck!
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« Reply #19 on: March 27, 2010, 09:10:01 AM »

I would have whole car soda blasted/dipped and then epoxy primer whole car.

Soda won't take that off. Find a trust worthy blaster who uses fine crushed glass. They should be able to take that off without warping panels.
How much pressure does it take to start warping panels? I'm at about the same place starting my engine bay.  Not much rust but I bought some fine sand and started using a siphon feed bucket with maintaining 80-100 psi on a home shop compressor.    Just started using it on what surface rust was there mostly around the battery, some firewall spots,  and into some corner areas but have a majority of it left.  Other than the rust and paint removal I don't see much else happening.  I can buy the glass for twice the price of the sand but using a home compressor verses a commercial high pressure how much is it of a concern?  Haven't blasted outside my glass bead cabinet before on car sheet metal so I would like to see what level of sand blasting are we referring to.

You should not have problems with warping when doing your engine bay. It's easy to warp body panels ie trunk lids, hood, doors (on the outside) wherever there is long flat surface. Engine bay has a lot of creases/reinforcements
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1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722
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« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2010, 05:01:37 PM »

More progress started inside interior wish I could work more than two hours a day. Cant wait tell I can finish interior so my welder can weld in my new floors. Should I worry about the fire wall do you guys see the wrinkles in metal or is it nothing. Got different pads from work hopfully can finish drivers side and steering column mount tonight to bare metal and paint.


* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0391.jpg (161.26 KB, 816x612 - viewed 899 times.)

* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0431.jpg (134.87 KB, 816x612 - viewed 908 times.)
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Mike O
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« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2010, 07:44:57 PM »

Got dash half done tonight with new pads. I like these new pads


* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0451.jpg (117.14 KB, 816x612 - viewed 873 times.)

* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0461.jpg (111.45 KB, 816x612 - viewed 858 times.)

* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0471.jpg (89.64 KB, 816x612 - viewed 869 times.)

* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0491.jpg (108.05 KB, 816x612 - viewed 865 times.)
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Mike O
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« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2010, 06:43:32 AM »

In the beginning of the topic You can see my hood. Due you guys think I could use a scotch brite pad on a drill to get it or you guys think it would warp it. I just got allot more sanding pads and scotch brite pads. Wanted to try but not to warp it. I planed on sending it out to get sand blasted but if I can do it I would rather do it and put the money else where on car.
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Mike O
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« Reply #23 on: April 22, 2010, 04:26:13 PM »

More progress hopfully finish interior body guy starts weilding next month


* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0561.jpg (92.63 KB, 816x612 - viewed 827 times.)

* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0581.jpg (138.18 KB, 816x612 - viewed 781 times.)

* rsz_11969_dodge_charger_0571.jpg (137.05 KB, 816x612 - viewed 830 times.)
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Mike O
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« Reply #24 on: April 22, 2010, 04:29:40 PM »

More pics


* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0611.jpg (116.37 KB, 816x612 - viewed 761 times.)

* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0631.jpg (93.39 KB, 816x612 - viewed 762 times.)

* rsz_1969_dodge_charger_0641.jpg (88.03 KB, 816x612 - viewed 770 times.)
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