i burnt up my ammeter, now what. 7/4/13--- UPDATE

[lukedukem]

I would suggest a relay for the fuel pump also. That way you don't load the ignition switch with the fuel pump load. Chrysler engineers never intended the switch to carry that extra load and it's a good idea to take it easy on 40 year old parts.

I would get a small four pin automotive cube relay, you can get them with a small mounting tab with a screw hole for mounting. Wire one side of the relay coil to a good ground and the other to the run side of the ignition switch. You can also wire in a hidden kill switch in this wire if you would like as a theft prevention thing. That would shut off  fuel delivery unless you set the hidden switch in the closed position. Connect one of the remaining relay contact pins to your fuel pump wire and the last pin to a source of battery voltage through a 15 amp fuse. I would use a modern blade type fuse in an in line holder. You may be able to find a source of battery voltage on the fuse block. I don't have any wiring diagrams for your 69 to give you an exact location on the fuse block.

Also, since you said the pump was in the rear of the car, I would use at least #12 wire to keep the voltage drop down. you can follow the existing path but make sure the wire is properly installed to prevent it for getting cut on any metal. Tieing it along any existing wiring harness with cable ties and plastic electrical tape would be the way to go.

that was my next question pete, how to run everything. my fuse block is located in the glove box area. could i just run that last pin strait to the battery with an inilne fuse? thanks for the answers guys, i'm getting there.
one step at a time. my battery tray is on the way so i should be getting close to putting that in then i will get fuel to it.

[Pete in NH]

Yes, you could wire the fuel pump relay line through a fuse to the battery. I found a wiring diagram for your 69 Charger on line so I can talk more intelligently about things. It looks like you could also tap off battery voltage on the fuse block. There are six fuses all together, the two sort of in the center show a pink wire on one end of both fuses. The bottom of each of those two fuses are battery voltage and it looks like there may be a plug on point there for a 1/4" quick connect terminal. You could check that out with a voltmeter or trace light if you have one. The wire at that point on the bottom of those two fuses is labeled as RED-TR. That likely means the wire is red with a tracer or has a red tracer.

[lukedukem]

Yes, you could wire the fuel pump relay line through a fuse to the battery. I found a wiring diagram for your 69 Charger on line so I can talk more intelligently about things. It looks like you could also tap off battery voltage on the fuse block. There are six fuses all together, the two sort of in the center show a pink wire on one end of both fuses. The bottom of each of those two fuses are battery voltage and it looks like there may be a plug on point there for a 1/4" quick connect terminal. You could check that out with a voltmeter or trace light if you have one. The wire at that point on the bottom of those two fuses is labeled as RED-TR. That likely means the wire is red with a tracer or has a red tracer.

i'm on my way hoem... i'll check it out.
i'll also take pics of my distr. and post.
thanks

luke

[lukedukem]

ok, here are some pics of my distrib. with the cap off... hope these help us.
i have firecore wires now but it had blue one like the cap before, i think it was morosso?
your also right about the extra tab on the battery feed... should be good for the elect. pump.

luke

[Pete in NH]

Hi Luke,

Okay, you do indeed have a Chrysler electronic distributor. so, you would be all set to go with the Chrysler Orange box ECU system or the GM HEI conversion system. For the Chrysler system you can get your new engine wiring harness with this built in. Then you will need a P4120505 ECU, 1.2 ohm ballast resistor and a stock ignition coil. For the GM HEI system you would need the 4 pin ignitor module, E core coil,a heatsink for the ignitor module and make up a wiring harness. One advantage with the GM system is no ballast resistor.

From the looks of the picture that rotor has seen better days and if the cap is in similar condition I would change them both. Also, if the spark plug cables are old replace those too.

[lukedukem]

Hi Luke,

Okay, you do indeed have a Chrysler electronic distributor. so, you would be all set to go with the Chrysler Orange box ECU system or the GM HEI conversion system. For the Chrysler system you can get your new engine wiring harness with this built in. Then you will need a P4120505 ECU, 1.2 ohm ballast resistor and a stock ignition coil. For the GM HEI system you would need the 4 pin ignitor module, E core coil,a heatsink for the ignitor module and make up a wiring harness. One advantage with the GM system is no ballast resistor.

From the looks of the picture that rotor has seen better days and if the cap is in similar condition I would change them both. Also, if the spark plug cables are old replace those too.

ok, so i found the Chrysler Orange box ECU P4120505(and with no harness), but every ballast reisitor i find doesnt state the ohms. is it just stock. and where can i get a stock coil, or can i run an aftermarket one, or does that require to change things

[Pete in NH]

The ballast resistor is P5206436 which is a 1 ohm. These resistors increase in resistance as they warm up so whether you call it a 1 ohm or 1.2 ohm it's all the same. On the coil what I meant by a stock coil is any coil that would have been used on this car. It can be a Mopar coil or an after market one. For example the coil I now have on my 71 383 is a NAPA/Echlin unit and it works just fine with the orange box. I say NAPA/Echlin because these days NAPA and everyone else has a lower cost line of parts, mostly from China. Best to stay away from that stuff because you never know how good the quality is. Echlin is an upper line part. It may cost more but it's decent stuff.

Since some one really changed the ignition system on your car, you may also need a coil mounting bracket to mount a stock type coil. The coil mounts slightly to the rear of the distributor on your B block engine.

[lukedukem]

The ballast resistor is P5206436 which is a 1 ohm. These resistors increase in resistance as they warm up so whether you call it a 1 ohm or 1.2 ohm it's all the same. On the coil what I meant by a stock coil is any coil that would have been used on this car. It can be a Mopar coil or an after market one. For example the coil I now have on my 71 383 is a NAPA/Echlin unit and it works just fine with the orange box. I say NAPA/Echlin because these days NAPA and everyone else has a lower cost line of parts, mostly from China. Best to stay away from that stuff because you never know how good the quality is. Echlin is an upper line part. It may cost more but it's decent stuff.

Since some one really changed the ignition system on your car, you may also need a coil mounting bracket to mount a stock type coil. The coil mounts slightly to the rear of the distributor on your B block engine.

thanks for the info pete... so i looked all this stuff and i found it all, but now its the hard part---- the wiring up part. is there a diagram i can use. i do have my big book with all the diagrams in it... would it be in there. i'll look when i get home

luke

[Pete in NH]

You won't find anything in your 69 shop manual about these electronic ignition systems as they didn't arrive until 1972. Will you be using a new engine wiring harness like from Evan's with the electronic ignition wiring built in or a separate wiring harness from Mopar Performance? Here's a link to the wiring for the orange box conversion kit from mopar- http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf  There's a lot of information here about installing these systems

[lukedukem]

You won't find anything in your 69 shop manual about these electronic ignition systems as they didn't arrive until 1972. Will you be using a new engine wiring harness like from Evan's with the electronic ignition wiring built in or a separate wiring harness from Mopar Performance? Here's a link to the wiring for the orange box conversion kit from mopar- http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf  There's a lot of information here about installing these systems

I got my harness from yearone. With out it built in. Thanks for the link.

Luke

[Budnicks]

try this

[lukedukem]

Thanks bud.

Luke

[Pete in NH]

You can also use the ready made Mopar Performance wire harness P3690152 and follow the hook up instructions from the Mopar Performance kit if you don't want to make up your own wiring. It might not be too easy to find the 5 pin moulded connector for the orange box ECU unless you do a little junk yard shopping. I don't know if you can still get new connectors from Chrysler like you could in the past.

[lukedukem]

Can someone post pics of how the battery tray is mounted. I just got mine in but need to know how it goes in. Thanks. Also. How does the vacumm canister mount.

[lukedukem]

Can someone post pics of how the battery tray is mounted. I just got mine in but need to know how it goes in. Thanks. Also. How does the vacumm canister mount.

Anyone

[K9COP]

Dayyammmm, we don't even get 24 hours... wow..

1) So here we have the vacuum can (black ribbed cylinder on right of shot) and rear upper inboard corner of the battery tray, the rear of the car is to the left. Those hoses run from the can through bulkhead to headlight switch. Black strap with bolt at rear end on yellow surface is mount of vacuum can to frame. Red object going down from battery tray to the frame is the battery tray support.



2) Here we have the front end of the vacuum can. Again, flat strap bolts it to frame.



3) Upper inboard forward corner of battery tray looking forwards towards the 'engine side' of the radiator 'bulkhead'. Coolant overflow bottle above, radiator shroud to right.



4) Looking down on rear outboard corner of battery tray. You can see the top of the captive coach bolt going into the inner wheel well. I have not checked what's the other side of this. Check your car carefully.



5) Forward side of radiator bulkhead. This is the other end of the bolt shown in (3) above:



Not terribly clear, but the red/orange item in the centre of the shot by the rear end of the vacuum can is the mildly 'S' shaped diagonally positioned support for the battery tray. Bolt at each end.



Hope this helps. Now, patience glasshopper.....

CS

[lukedukem]

It does help. A lot.
I know, I only gave 22 hrs and I am sometimes impatient. My wife keeps telling me that. Only when it dells with car stuff. Thanks for the pics. Again sorry


Luke.

[K9COP]

Relax buddy, I was only teasing you. Let me know if you need anything else. BTW, I can only say this is how MY CAR is. She's 44 years old now, so others may be different.

Enjoy..

CS

[lukedukem]

Relax buddy, I was only teasing you. Let me know if you need anything else. BTW, I can only say this is how MY CAR is. She's 44 years old now, so others may be different.

Enjoy..

CS

Lol. It all good. My battery was relocated by PO and I had now clue how that stuff mounted. These pics will surely help out.

Luke

[K9COP]

No worries brother. Question. Where was the battery relocated to, and why do you want to move it back? Can't help thinking that if the battery is now in the boot (trunk) then that may solve a whole load of issues you may have with the car. For example, if the battery +ve wire is traveling from the rear of the car to the starter relay, wherever you decide to put that if you move it, then you could have a battery isolator switch permanently installed inside the car, allowing you to simply switch off the battery current (good thing IMO) whenever you leave/park the car. In fact, I may do that to mine to save running a battery cable in, then back out of, the cabin.

I understand if you want the car to be all original spec, but I think you have to bear in mind 40+ year old wiring too, unless that's all new as well, in which case I'll shut up...

CS

[lukedukem]

It was in the trunk. Yeah, I bought all new harnesses for the car and I'm relocating it for simplicity. Easier for me too put it all back together if its close to factory. Hopefully anyway.

Luke

[K9COP]

Where'd you get your harnesses from please? I may well just replace my dash harness...

CS

[lukedukem]

Where'd you get your harnesses from please? I may well just replace my dash harness...

CS

M&H, but you have to go though yearone.

[K9COP]

Thank you.

PETE IN NH can you supply the link to the online wiring diagram you mentioned for the '69 please? I tried but didn't find a useful one.....

CS

[Pete in NH]

Hi Cayman,

The links for the 69 Charger wiring diagrams are : http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69ChargerA.JPG and http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69ChargerB.JPG   Hope they are helpful.