Pegged amp gauge

[lasvegas69charg]

here is some of before relocating wires pics

[lasvegas69charg]

msd computer for efi pic...

[lasvegas69charg]

pic...

[lasvegas69charg]

pic of back of alt...

[b5blue]

Nice work! If the whole thing was working okay before and the new pump is the problem: Add a power to new pump feed off the alt. that is triggered by a relay turned on by the MSD box. (Least amount of reworking.)

[lasvegas69charg]

Here is the wire diagram for the msd efi.  Its just one wire to the battery or in my case to the alternator output post. The fuel pump is powered by the msd computer...Thanks Neal and peter 

[Pete in NH]

I would run a new 8 gauge wire from the alternator output stud directly to the ammeter (right side) and another new 8 gauge wire from the other side of the ammeter to the starter relay battery stud through a 50 amp Maxi-fuse in a holder. I would then disconnect the existing wire from the bulk head connector to the starter relay battery stud and tape it off. This will give you what Chrysler called the fleet bypass modification and will get the troublesome bulkhead connector pins out of the way. That way you will not have to worry about blower motor or other loads stressing the bulk head connector pins.

[lasvegas69charg]

Pete so run the lines parallel from alt to ammeter thru ammeter to battery stud on starter relay with fuse and remove fusible link?

[Pete in NH]

Yes, I would remove the existing black #12 gauge wire from the alternator output stud that goes to the bulk head connector pin and tape it off. Then run a new # 8 gauge black wire from the alternator output stud directly through a grommeted hole on the fire wall to the ammeter. Then run a new #8 gauge red wire from the other side of the ammeter through the same hole in the firewall. Between this wire and the battery stud on the starter relay , I would but the new 50 or 60 amp Maxi-Fuse. You can then remove the existing fusible link. Chrysler did something like this at the factory on B body cars with big alternators. This modification takes the weak link of the bulk head connector pins out of the picture. It also gets rid of the fusible link and gives you a more modern fuse that is easily replaced if need be. I've even seen those Maxi-Fuses for sale in my local hardware store. The old fusible link isn't so easily replaced.

[Nacho-RT74]

If you think of the ammeter as an indicator of whether current is going into or out of the battery it helps you understand how this system works. The Chrysler designers intended the ammeter to do just that, tell you whether the battery was charging or discharging. When you add things like amplifiers and fuel pumps connected to the battery, the ammeter thinks the load current is battery charging current and the needle swings to the right.

and that's what add unnecesary stress on all the charging system.

Sorry I entered late to this, but everything has pretty much summed out by Neal and Pete.

Yes, MSD advices to hook everything from batt, but How much load grabs their devices to this? Of course this is not good with ammeter equipped cars. MSD ignition system doesn't sucks really A LOT of load so the original charging system ( mantenience would be mandatory though ) could alow this, but EFI system? dunno.

Actually WHAT I would do ? keeping ammeter of course replace ( or add parallel ) the charging wires from and to the ammeter, bypassing bulkhead terminals AND maybe add a BUS to attach extra devices on engine bay on black side of the ammeter to keep the correct reading on ammeter.

Somewhere on the web sometime ago I found an ISOLATED bus stud with TWO SIDES... this could make you use this to get sources inside and outside the cab, and in fact use this to go through the firewall between alt and ammeter, drilling the hole on firewall and attaching this bus stud there.

[Nacho-RT74]

gotcha!


http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_Single_Stud_Type_Junction_Blocks.pdf




http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsingle+stud+junction&_nkw=single+stud+junction&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Just a newer idea what I though recently

[Nacho-RT74]

this could be maybe the NICER of everyone?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PER-663-Black-Feed-Through-Terminal-Junction-Firewall-Battery-3-8-Stud-Bulkhead-/261352864923?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item3cd9d83c9b&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PER-662-Red-Feeder-Through-Terminal-Junction-Firewall-Battery-3-8-Stud-Bulkhead-/331083948307?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item4d16242113&vxp=mtr

Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Battery%20Cable%20Firewall%20Feed-Thru%20Panel%20Terminal%20Connector

provider:

http://www.performanceplusconnection.com/Item/Red_Black_Firewall_FeedThru

[Nacho-RT74]

with isolated nut caps!!!

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/automotive-passenger-car/power-distribution-centers/junction-blocks.aspx

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/power-distribution-centers/littelfuse_pdc_junctionblocks.pdf

[Nacho-RT74]

just found Ron Francis Offers them:

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FS-8

[b5blue]

I just ordered weather proof bulkhead "pass through" grommets. Black plastic nut/bolt looking things that have a hole in the center. It has a cap with a rubber seal in it and you run the wire through the hole tighten the cap and it seals around the wire. No extra connections. I'll see if I can find a link.

[b5blue]

Here..
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17488_StreetWires-FB8.html

[Nacho-RT74]

yeah, that's the usual way to make it, but the junction block gives you the chance to get a BUSS source ( being double side, inside and outside the cab )  for any extra devices without need to run a full wire to alt or batt.

In fact, to run devices sourced from alt side, you are saving some feet on wiring, getting a closer source to the batt as posible, still being on alt side

just another option to make it though

[Nacho-RT74]

And even remove wiring for any reason, without deal with body obstacles ( like Phords )

[lasvegas69charg]

Thanks Pete, Neil and Nacho for the info. Pete-wouldn't I want to keep the factory 12ga wire from alt to bulkhead? By eliminating the wire will it still feed everything for the car?

[Pete in NH]

Yes, you could keep the #12 gauge black wire from the alternator to bulk head connector in place. Your new #8 gauge wire would run in parallel with it and take most of the current load. This existing #12 black wire goes from the alternator through a bulk head connector pin to A big welded wire splice Chrysler calls a "splice joint", from there it goes to one side of the ammeter. That welded splice is where all the cars electrical loads tie in. My personal preference is not to cut wires so things can be put back to factory original if desired. That is why I suggested disconnecting the black wire at the alternator output stud and taping it up and out of the way. You run your new # 8 gauge black wire directly to the ammeter terminal with the existing black wire. Leaving the existing black wire in place to feed power to the electrical loads in the car.  

I just like the idea of getting the bulk head connector pins totally out of the picture in the charging circuit.

[Nacho-RT74]

the splice joint would be sourced just from ammeter stud with the new wire and not from alt stud anymore if you don't keep it connected. MaMopar did it on that way on high optioned cars with big alts. On these cars, the wire between bulkhead and alternator was unexistant, just the straight path through the firewall, but underdash harness remaint the same than the rest. Not a big deal, but I preffer to keep it, won't hurt anything actually. Just about prefference... it is already there, worked all this time, no reason to not use it anymore, even more now reinforced

You'll need of course to keep the existant 12 gauge still attached to ammeter and simply attach the new one to make that. Clean all terminals to get success

[lasvegas69charg]

ok.  thanks Pete and Nacho for the good info.  I will be upgrading the wiring this weekend.

[lasvegas69charg]

Hi Pete , Neil and Nacho. I did the upgrade. I ran 8ga from alt to ammeter with a termination block inbetween where I connected my amp and efi to. I also disconnected existing black wire from alt stud and taped and still keeping the black wire connected to ammeter to power the splice. I then ran a 8ga from red side of ammeter to maxi 50a fuse to starter relay stud. Completely bypassing bulkhead. Battery has full charge. I started the car and the gauge went to +30 and then quickly went between 0 and +10 but it's not a steady needle it's very erratic needle moving very very quickly. I raised the rpm with no change. Is this normal?

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Very good on making the upgrades to your electrical system. The ammeter needle should not be very erratic as you're describing. The ammeter should settle down to a steady reading of just slightly above the center 0 position when the battery is fully charged.

I would check for loose connections in the system. Look at the voltage regulator connections and make sure the regulator case is well grounded. Half stripped out sheet metal screws and rust do not make for a good ground. The alternator brushes could also be worn down or not have proper spring tension on them. Also, I'm not a fan of the clamp on battery terminals you show in your photos. I would start there in looking for loose connections. A better battery terminal replacement is to use marine battery terminals and crimped on ring lugs on the cables.  Then you use the bolts on the marine battery terminals to attach the rings lugs to. This gives you a nice tight positive contact area. Something you can never get with those clamp on wire terminals.

[lasvegas69charg]

Thanks Pete. I will check out all my connections and I will try another voltage reg. The good thing is that the ammeter is closer to zero than before and I feel a lot better with the thicker gauge wire in place. I am wondering if the fuel injectors are causing the erratic needle movement.  I was actually dreading on doing this project but it only took a couple of hours.