So what's the best alternator to use on my 68?

[bull]

Pretty standard setup with the typical electronic ignition upgrade. I've also got the repro wiring harness from Y1 with the electronic ignition upgrades, so should I just ask the guy at Napa for a 1970 Charger alternator?

[Nacho-RT74]

depending how much you want to spend and how much "stock" look and correct aged you want... you can go with 78 amps stock alt in $50 rate ( mostly of cases is SIMPLY ENOUGH ), or 100 amps aftermarket units but stock look on $140 rate.

also bigger ones, Denso, etc...

your choose.

anyone of them will demand some wirings upgrades too. Also depending on how much you want to keep stock look and equipment

[Back N Black]

I running one from NAPA with no issues. 

[bull]

depending how much you want to spend and how much "stock" look and correct aged you want... you can go with 78 amps stock alt in $50 rate ( mostly of cases is SIMPLY ENOUGH ), or 100 amps aftermarket units but stock look on $140 rate.

also bigger ones, Denso, etc...

your choose.

anyone of them will demand some wirings upgrades too. Also depending on how much you want to keep stock look and equipment

So is it good to run that extra 22 amps? How critical is it?

[Nacho-RT74]

yes is good ENOUGH if you ask me. they are not right aged or dated fro a 68 but allmost unnapreciable difference

and is critical enough to upgrade wires ( you know what thread to search now LOL )

[b5blue]

Look into the low amps at idle problem first Bull, if your not in a hurry wait as Nacho found a good alt shop online and when I contacted them they said they are working on a unit that will have extra windings in it (but look stock) 68's have round back, one field, alts with a point type regulator.70 up has square back, 2 field alt, with solid state regulator, so looks wise it's just the shape of the back of the alt and a flat or square regulator.   

[bull]

No hurry here other than I like to move forward consistantly. I'd like to have everything I can get bolted to the engine before I install it, hopefully early this summer.

[maxwellwedge]

Look into the low amps at idle problem first Bull, if your not in a hurry wait as Nacho found a good alt shop online and when I contacted them they said they are working on a unit that will have extra windings in it (but look stock) 68's have round back, one field, alts with a point type regulator.70 up has square back, 2 field alt, with solid state regulator, so looks wise it's just the shape of the back of the alt and a flat or square regulator.   

The square back started after 71 some time but it will work.

[Rolling_Thunder]

I ask for a 78 Volare alternator...     higher amp output than the 46 or so stock one...    it is 72 instead   

[Nacho-RT74]

normally they are 78 amps units.

I have had posted some details about them on moparts... will float the links here later

[Rolling_Thunder]

normally they are 78 amps units.

I have had posted some details about them on moparts... will float the links here later

That's right - sorry about the mix up     

[b5blue]

Keep in mind I am talking about the low output AT IDLE not total amp output problem. You can add total output amps very easily but still be sitting at a light at night with dim lights and a slow blower or wipers (or both) till you raise RPM's. 

[Rolling_Thunder]

headlight relays help a bunch   

[ChgrSteve67]

I go into NAPA and tell them I have a 72 Challanger with a 440
After the ooohs and aaahs they give me a Square back, two field 78 amp altanator.

If you are running an alt amp gauge check to see if it will handle the additional amps.

I by passed mine and went to a voltage gauge.

Later I also installed relays for power the headlights directly from the battery.

[bull]

There used to be a thread about that headlight relay upgrade on the old site. Did it make its way over here?

[Hemidog]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,168.0.html

Great upgrade!

[Nacho-RT74]

just a note... everything feeded from alt side, not batt side... thats the RIGHT source

[bull]

Ok, so maybe this is obvious but why would I need a bigger alt if the headlight relay thing will deal with most of the stock low-amp idle issues? What more is there to it?

BTW, I had my stock alt bench tested today and it tested good, but it's ugly. If I decide to keep it is there a way to crack it open and clean up the blades inside?

[ChgrSteve67]

Its a matter of supply and demand.

If you car is demanding more power than your alt is producing you will eventually drain your battery.

I have two 20 amp electric fans so it would not take long to drain my battery without larger alt.

[b5blue]

The capacity of output is speed dependent. Below a certain RPM the ALT. is not fully excited, just think of it as a pump filling a bucket with holes in it. The more stuff running, the more holes. As these systems were designed 40 years ago they were just good enough to keep up. Add parasitic loss to all the hundreds of tiny connections corroding (more holes) and the fact that the Amp gauge takes 100% of the load to "read" it (making it the weak point in the system) then add anything that draws even 1 amp more to a charging system that had all it could do to keep up when new at idle and that little pump just don't do it anymore when spinning slower, under a bigger demand than just running the motor. Modern cars use much more amps all the time for all there stuff and nobody runs all of it in and out of a gauge anymore. Buy using relays you can divert amps from going through your Amp gauge and shorten the amount of wire the current must travel to run something (the amp gauge then just reads the draw of the relay coil, not the load the relay "switches on and off") That helps the "weak point" problem greatly letting us keep our stock dashes. However whatever you do you will still have less than total rated output from the ALT. at idle as the relays feed power to things directly from the ALT. still. None of this is a problem if you: A- raise your idle setting higher or B- Never use your car in the rain, at night. run defrost-heater-A/C, add a huge stereo amplifier or other large draw items or C- replace every switch, wire, bulb, connector, coupler, fuse, motor, and relay with new and keep your car totally 100% stock. None of these apply to me, my car is 24/7/365 days a year, anywhere, anytime, rain or shine, day or night. So "for me" this is the last big problem and the only one not corrected yet, Mancini Racing assured me that there "Denso" Alt. kit gives me plenty of "idle output" for 249.00 plus shipping. (It will also give me 120 Amps total output.  ) (Meaning I MUST install relays to keep 120 Amps OUT of my stock dash!) and the other company is developing a stock 78 Amp Alt. with additional windings that will add output at idle to solve the whole issue and appear very "stock looking". So your question is a good one, with no simple answer, it depends on the cars use. Mileage is important to me as is dependability, I did allot of research on compression ratio and cam choice vs power as to not require just premium gas to save money in the long haul. My approach may be rather unique but I had to work with what I already had and could afford. (and still be the sole support/custodial parent of 3 super kids!) Good luck Bull I didn't want to see you tie up a bunch of time and money only to end up with a redo later AFTER doing much more work.       

[bull]

Sounds like you could almost accomplish the desired effect by running a smaller pulley on the stock alt. Smaller pulley, shorter belt, alt spins faster...

[ChgrSteve67]

There are those that have done that too.

If you can find a pully and belt.

[bull]

There are those that have done that too.

If you can find a pully and belt.

Yea, not an easy thing to do.

[b5blue]

I asked the company doing the modified alt. about that, apparently it's not as good of a solution, I think its prone to slipping. (But we think alike)   

[Rallye]

Has anyone ever tried the alternators from Bouchllon?  It says they are 75 amps with at least 50 amps at idle.  Here's a link...  http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEalternators.asp