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dash, taillights and side marker lighting out.....RESOLVED.

Started by 70charginglizard, April 12, 2011, 09:16:00 PM

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70charginglizard

well I knew it was just a matter of time before this one hit. Lost all dash lighting in the charger today along with the radio and tic toc tac clock.

Gages are all fuction except for the clock but nothing has light and thefuse keeps blowing out on the fuse block on the instrument fuse location.

God I hate electrical issues on mopar. they are such a pain in the butt. I've been looking for a good excuse to purchase that real expensive dash wiring harness. Looks like I finally found one. What a pain though. Oh well....not much choice anymore now. Pull out that pocket book again.

Anyone know that year one discount code for this month. lol
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

oh and just to be sure it was not the dimmer switch or headlight switch I disconnected those both and its still blowing out fuses at the instrument location on the fuse box. So I know its not related to those two items. :-\
70charginglizard

nascarxx29

Your dash light feed wire is orange at the Instrument panel cluster pins.The 3 amp fuse that supplys the dashlight.Is there power there at end where fuse clips in .The other end of the fuse connection is tan .Maybe try a alt power source into the tan wire and check for dash lights without the fuse.You can also checkout the connections of the roll dimmer switch .And be sure dash clusters screws are tight and providing a good ground

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChargerB.JPG
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

70charginglizard

Quote from: nascarxx29 on April 14, 2011, 12:06:53 AM
Your dash light feed wire is orange at the Instrument panel cluster pins.The 3 amp fuse that supplys the dashlight.Is there power there at end where fuse clips in .The other end of the fuse connection is tan .Maybe try a alt power source into the tan wire and check for dash lights without the fuse.You can also checkout the connections of the roll dimmer switch .And be sure dash clusters screws are tight and providing a good ground

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChargerB.JPG

God I must be blind. The fuse that actually keeps blowing is this 20A location one (see attached)

It shows that location that keeps blowing out as the tail/stop light fuse location. Must have something going on in the tail light harness location. Wonder why its causing the instrument lighting not to fuction? The guages all work its just the instrument lighting that seems to be toast. I will check the tail lights tonight after work to see if there not working to and let you know what I find. thanks for the input NASCARXX29
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Yep. No tail lights or side marker lights. Something weirds goin on. Still dont understand why that would cause all the instrument lighting, the clock on the tic toc tach and the after market radio I have in the car not to work. I thought that stuff was on a seperate fuse lines? all the other fuse lines are fine. Its just that tail/stop light fuse.
70charginglizard

nascarxx29

On the 20 amp fuse that blows .You can remove that fuse and use alt power source to either end of fuse holder and check results.One end of the fuse is power the other end is the device brake light turn signal etc .You will find out if its a direct short to ground on the power side
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

70charginglizard

Quote from: nascarxx29 on April 14, 2011, 11:07:17 PM
On the 20 amp fuse that blows .You can remove that fuse and use alt power source to either end of fuse holder and check results.One end of the fuse is power the other end is the device brake light turn signal etc .You will find out if its a direct short to ground on the power side

I connected up alt power source to that 20 amp location shown above to both upper and lower positions seperately and tested both positions seperately and its definately the lower position putting something out. not sure which one that is (power or devise) but it's got one red wire coming off of it on the back of the fuse box so im assuming its power.

just fyi- The upper location (which doesnt seem to be having a problem) is the one with two wires (a red and a pink) coming off of it on the back of the fuse box. and again. the tester isnt lighting up from the upper position.


:scratchchin:
70charginglizard

nascarxx29

Check with headlight switch in parking light or full on position.Where the dash lights get there power from.Check connections at roll dimmer switch
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

70charginglizard

Quote from: nascarxx29 on April 16, 2011, 04:01:02 AM
Check with headlight switch in parking light or full on position.Where the dash lights get there power from.Check connections at roll dimmer switch

Yeah I had checked those connection earlier by completely disconnecting them one at a time and then checking to see if it would let me install a new fuse. Each time it still kept blowing the fuse out still. even with those items completely disconnected   I can try again this morning later with the alt power tester and let you know for sure.

Oh and yesterday I disconnected the entire tail light harness from the driver side connection to the main dash harness just to be sure it wasnt a short from the tail light harness someplace and with it disconnected it still blows that fuse.

Here is a list of the things currectly not functioning.

1. The Radio. (couldnt find any obvious shorts on any of it's wiring), the clock on the tic toc tac (again...couldnt find any obvious shorts there either tach still works. just the clock is dead) 2. All the instrument lighting except for the emergency brake indicator light. (That emergency brake light indicator actually turns on when emergency brake is applied unlike anything else on the dash), 3. all side markers and parking lights (non of these are working yet all connections to them seems to be normal)  no obvious shorts at the light connection areas) and  lastly 4. the tail lights ( neither the parking position on the tail lights nor when you applied the brakes will light them up anymore)   thats about it in a nutshell.  

Headlights are working though. (different fuse location obviously)

Keep in mind with all that the only fuse blowing out is that 2nd one indicated above. all others are fuse locations are fine
70charginglizard

charger Downunder

Its not shorting out in the steering column area i would try disconnecting one of the flat column connectors especially the one that runs up to the turn signal switch.
[/quote]

70charginglizard

Quote from: charger Downunder on April 16, 2011, 06:32:08 PM
Its not shorting out in the steering column area i would try disconnecting one of the flat column connectors especially the one that runs up to the turn signal switch.

Disconnected both flat column connectors completely. Still blowing the fuse
70charginglizard

Charger-Bodie

Sometimes a blown bulb can do this if the broken filement falls to ground inside the bulb. I would start with taking out each bulb one at a time and inspect the filement. If that doesnt do it remove each dash light bulb one at a time. I had one of the plastic twist in sockets that if you turned if too far it would ground out and fry the fuse.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

b5blue

Look at the fuse block bottom tab for "inst. lt.", it's rusty. (The one all the way to the left in your pic.) Sand the rust off and recheck. Check the brake light switch and white wire to see if it came off and is grounding out. I think you have 2 separate problems.  :scratchchin:

charger Downunder

Interesting, Prior to this happening no one has asked but i will what have you touched replaced or fiddled with on the car.
The wires on the back of the fuse box check and see if they are shorting out on the body.
[/quote]

70charginglizard

Quote from: charger Downunder on April 16, 2011, 09:47:36 PM
Interesting, Prior to this happening no one has asked but i will what have you touched replaced or fiddled with on the car.
The wires on the back of the fuse box check and see if they are shorting out on the body.

Nothing really. I did put some new leaf springs and rear shocks in a few weeks ago but didnt touch anything close to wiring when I did that. Prior to that it was working fine. Its just so odd.

"The wires on the back of the fuse box check and see if they are shorting out on the body" ....   None that I can physical see. The one wire that seems to be the problem location is the red wire on that 20 amp location and it comes off the fuse box and goes directly into the taped up harness. Hard to tell where it goes from there. I'm assuming the battery.
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Quote from: b5blue on April 16, 2011, 09:11:59 PM
Look at the fuse block bottom tab for "inst. lt.", it's rusty. (The one all the way to the left in your pic.) Sand the rust off and recheck. Check the brake light switch and white wire to see if it came off and is grounding out. I think you have 2 separate problems.  :scratchchin:

Sorry. that wasnt a picture of my fuse box. that was a picture I swiped off the net just to clearly show what fuse location I was having problems on.

this is a picture of mine:




Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Hopefully soon I will have a brand new one in my hand ready to replace this old crap. But it sure would be nice to be able to find the location causing issue with this one before I do that.
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

and heres the jumbled mess in the back of it. Sorry for the quality of the picture. My camera sucks on close ups



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Quote from: 1HotDaytona on April 16, 2011, 09:03:01 PM
Sometimes a blown bulb can do this if the broken filement falls to ground inside the bulb. I would start with taking out each bulb one at a time and inspect the filement. If that doesnt do it remove each dash light bulb one at a time. I had one of the plastic twist in sockets that if you turned if too far it would ground out and fry the fuse.

OK I'll take on that task tomorrow. Sounds like fun. not.  :eek2:
70charginglizard

charger Downunder

Take your glove box out look through and turn on the windscreen wipers and see if the internal wiper arm has been rubbing on the wire harness anywhere.
[/quote]

nascarxx29

Has the glove box light maplight and cigar lighter wiring been looked over .As I recall those wires are pink and red.As the wires that would be attached to that particular fuse  .I remember trying to change the glove box bulb and popping the fuse .
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

70charginglizard

Map light and glove box light is working. Cigar lighter is not. I'll take a closer examination of that as well today.

Thanks
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Keep in mine everyone I believe its the lower fuse connection point (power-red line only) putting out constant power to the fuse cucuit.
Not the upper one (devise-red and pink)



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Curious....do you guys have that obnoxious pink piggyback thing going on that i do on that circuit just next to my problem one? I always wondered why that one has such an obnoxious stackup there???   I really hate the dash wiring set up on this car of mine. Its obviously been screwed with over the years.  I really cant wait to get my new year one harness and clean some of this crap up thats going on underneath there.  
70charginglizard

nascarxx29

Have you tried a 12 volt jumper wire into the device side from a alternate power source.To check results.The original fused 12 volt power source maybe you problem that your by passing as a test.The device side will not have power coming out with no fuse
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

nascarxx29

A jumper wire is basically a testlight with no light .Its a straight wire from end to end.You suspect the original power source going to that particular fuse.So your bypassing it using another source of 12 volts .12 volts will not shock you .With fuse removed power up both ends of fuse holder of the particular fuse that blows.The devise end should light up whats not working .If you power up other end of fuse the 12 volt power.And get a spark .Thats a indication of a dead short= postive to ground.And needs further investigation.I did my own electrical work for years no diagrams and just a testlight.And done about 100 cars since then .Wiring is easy dont think about the whole harness take one wire at a time .Like your taking a drive from here to there.And starting from home the battery and follow it. And 12 volt power to device with fuse in the middle is a basic circuit
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

70charginglizard

got you. I connected a straight jumper wire from the battery to the device side of the 20amp upper cuicut location and all im getting is a spark. Dash lights are not turning on.

Interestingly enough the clock started working on the tic toc tac and the cigar light marker lights and tail lights all started working.  But the instrument lights still dont. Must be a short someplace on the instrumentaion someplace

Not power side.

Now the only question is where. Could be just bout anything up there. lol

Checked the turn signal bulbs and no bulb filiment burnout there either.


frustrated and sore now.
70charginglizard