73' Charger Toasted Fuse Block & Wires you have to see this ! Help !

[Nacho-RT74]

Nacho, yes...it is leaking on the front bowl side not the back towards the firewall.

Even with the new gasket that I just received, she still leaks, not as bad.

Thank you for posting the diagram.

Ok... I bet the rear bowl it gets also reduced its contain. Sometimes even the lid seal, which gets somehow of "bag" areas ( dunno how to call them ), is sucked by the vacuum while the rear bowl is getting emptied. If is not a MC problem with pistons seals getting damaged, is the O rings into the brake fluid distributor ( AKA Combination valve or Badly AKA as proportioning valve )

there is a kit to rebuild them

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/mopar-parts

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/articles

[ACUDANUT]

Okay, per Nacho. My wiring harness is for a 74. Did not know there was a difference.  Smog vs. Smog. 

[Nacho-RT74]

Every year harness is diff from the other, but 72/73 are the closer between them with minor differences easy to solve.

[ACUDANUT]

I guess I will throw mine away. Nobody restores 74 Chargers. Then again I thought the same thing for 73. 

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Yeah man I wanted the harness you have for an extra for years down the road.
I could tell it was not the same as my 73' Harness.
Do be mad...
I wish it would work for a 73 also....

[BMOTOXSTAR]

I opened another can of worms with my brakes Nacho ! Where can I find the correct valve instead of rebuilding? I tried E-Bay and there is 3 different ones. I will post a pic of mine...


I took a closer look and yes the MC is leaking on the back by the boost also. So I am hoping that the new MC will solve the leak issue, already had a new one. I checked the lines and the bolts to the Boost and they are easy to get loose so I think I can handle this one. 

Mine is the original MC and it is crusty. The seal has to be bad. The valve looks crusty but dry and not leaking.



Maybe start a new brake issue thread?

Nacho, if only leaking out front bowl did you say I could just drill a hole in the MC wall? That stuiff is cast iron though....

I allways have soldered and so far so good haven't got any problem with that yet. Sure I'm aware about the excess of lead will prone to break the wire specially to critical areas harnesses with movement and I don't have a good crimper.

About the brake light... the lid gasket has nothing to do with the brake light on cluster. You are having a leak AFTER the dist block, or even between MC pistons OR the differential piston into the dist block is leaking throught the circuits O rings. BTDT on last one.

My car ( same as many Mopars in Vzla ) was getting the light on and the big bowl on MC getting emptied while the small bowl overflowed. At the end found the brake fluid was being interchanged between front and rear circuits through the differential piston system into the dist block. That was making the differential piston to activate the light on cluster because the front brakes system gets more pressure than the rear and with that drainage throught the dist block the piston was been pushed.



How "mechanics" cheated ppl in Venezuela along the years? After make many MC changes, or service the pistons inside couple of times without good results they end disconnecting the dist block switch and drill a hole between bowls wall to keep the fluid balanced. Brakes keeps working, just not as efficient it should, but the "emptying and overflowing" problem was being "solved"... and light OFF. Sure everybody thinks the dist block will never fail LOL.

Have you noticed of the leak on lid comes from just the front section of MC ?

You can clean MC surface and gasket ( I in fact sandpaper them ) and add some pressure to the lid bending a bit the lid retaining spring.

[Nacho-RT74]

well, is a 40 years old car... LOL

long time ago a reproduction of the KH combination valve was being sold but not anymore. Anyway didn't last long. I got one and had to replaced a year and a half later due the same failure my original had. Had to get an used one ( once again ). It used a diff pressure sensor switch and differential piston.

I have heard somebody was working on a new reproduction, but by now just used are available or rebuilt your one. It is supossely kinda easy to do. I have the kit to rebuilt mine but still haven't. Well my car is on the body shop since 7  years ago, so, why I was to rebuilt it now ? LOL.

But go step by step. Go with the MC first.

The MC seals are easy to service at home. You don't need really to get a new MC. You can service either the seals or the pistons with seals attached, just keeping your MC. Really is EASY to do.

drill the MC wall is just to "cheat" the system being sure you won't be out of fluid on the big bowl if you have the fail I described LOL. Don't do it because is not a fix

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Yeah man, did the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Much better and no leaks ! Well so far...

The brake light still stays on with no leaks at the PV or Master at all. The PV is real crusty and I will have to re-do the lines on that so I left alone since the MC lines were perfect.Very lucky !

Could it be possible to get a universal PV to work if I can't find a used one to get re-bulit? Want to keep mine on the car until I figure it out.

Think this could work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Disc-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Metering-Valve-for-Disc-Drum-A-B-C-and-E/264342306725?hash=item3d8c077fa5:g:f1YAAOSwKlhdGsWE

[Nacho-RT74]

Sorry I had missed this.

Better than a damaged valve is a working unit. But can't tell which one could be the best one. Some of the lines could require son bend mods

[Nacho-RT74]

Quoting from AKCharger's thread

You got my charging system & electrical  figured out !

So not anymore ocassional weird flickering reading on ammeter? It seems the loosen brush was the problem?

I also have a toggle for my hideaways from the battery with a fuse till I do the correct splice for that.

Dunno if you are aware about you can use a regular 5 pins relay?

[BMOTOXSTAR]

I did not know about that relay set up. Thanks man. Yeah for now it should not hurt  am going to stay with the toggle to battery with a fuse?

Yeah that loose brush had to be the problem.

So, went to mechanic to have a ball joint and front end alignment done. He said that the rubber front brake lines will soon need replaced. Could that cause the light to stay on? Doubt it...

Ran great in the Arizona 100 degree heat to get back home and the ALT meter did great !

Thanks man

[Nacho-RT74]

You can keep the toggle switch, but why if can be done working automatically as soon you turn on and off the headlights itself? LOL. I made that diagram long time ago and it seeems become popular on the web being shared.

The old rubber lines can get somehow damaged but as far they don't leak that won't turn on the cluster light. Sometimes the brakes fluid distributor piston switch could need to be reset somehow. I think the FSM says how to do it. Althought when I have bleeded te brakes system wher logically the light gets on, once the system gets back to normal the light comes off after some regular braking job.

[BMOTOXSTAR]

Thank you again Nacho. I am going to order the lines myself, the rubber ones, they look a little crusty no leaks. I will try to bleed brakes again and hop that light goes out !

At least I know the light works though I guess !

[ACUDANUT]

Nacho is the Man !!