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Even the map light blows the fuse!

Started by HANDM, April 05, 2011, 01:33:28 PM

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HANDM

I have been trying to put 12 volts to the charger without any success, well a little, just not much

Every time I try a fuse in the "dome" slot ,the bulb lights for a few and then snap, goes the fuse.
Head lights and buzzer for a few, then snap goes the fuse

All the others are still "good" for now but I suspect they too will snap when power gets applied.

Is there any major spots I should look for?

Here is a thread I started about cheap chinese wire from Oreilly

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,79119.0.html

Could that be the problem?

resq302

Almost sounds like you have a direct short somewhere.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

tan top

Quote from: resq302 on April 05, 2011, 07:20:13 PM
Almost sounds like you have a direct short somewhere.

:yesnod:

   has the dome light wiring ever been removed  from the car ??  
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

nascarxx29

Maybe try removing the dome light bulb and see what happens.Is bulb the double ended contact type.
The pink or yellow wires maybe be shorting out.The dome light wires run from light under headlinder and down to kick panel behind E brake.Have you tried a alt power source and put power in on one end where the fuse goes.
If you can inject power to yellow wire fuse end and no problem.And it sparks on the pink end of fuse a direct short on the power source.You can do the 12 volt testlight across the battery terminals or the fuse where it blows.
To track it down.
But doors switches etc need to be closed and off.To get a accurate test
Move wires unplugg and check testlight .If light goes out your good .If it flickers but stays on problem persists
Hope this helps. Ive repaired mopar wiring and chased the electrical gremlins for years
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

HANDM

Thanks for the replies, this one has got me stumped, I too have successfully chased down gremlins on this car and my E's, but jeez.........this one  :eek2:

Ther is no dome bulb in at the moment, just the map light under the dash, the console lights were working as well, but they quit after a full 12 volts were applied........

I'll check around some more and keep y'all posted

resq302

Try and back think.... Did you put any new screws in anywhere?  Did you drill any new holes?  What did you do prior to this short happening?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

A383Wing


HANDM

No new holes or screws,

Before I put the gauges and interior in, I started and ran the car with the ammeter wires hooked together with no trouble, after putting the dash together I left the ammeter wires taped...... Thinking that was the problem, I hooked them up with no effect.

I am really thinking that the cheap oreilly wire I used to replace the bulkhead connections for the big ten gauge black and red wires is the real problem :shruggy:

I'm not looking forward to ripping it out, but it seems that may be the only alternative

resq302

Hmmm, does it do it with the engine running or key in the on position?  Hook up the dome light bulb and with the key out and battery hooked up, see if the dome light and console lights work with the door just open.  That might eliminate a short in that circut?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

HANDM

So far I have...

Yanked the cluster to eliminate any trouble there
Removed the map light from it's connections
Disconnected the high/ low beam switch
Found brake switch connections were backwards


Hooked the ammeter wires together and now am able to crank the engine (haven't started it yet, no gas tank)
Turn signals now work (if they didn't already)
Brake warning light comes on with key on

Still popping the fuse with door switch



Next I will disconnect the dome and console light harness and lastly the door switches themselves although they are my "test" for popping the fuse......

Keep in mind that I've had the harness out, gone over the whole thing, cleaned and repaired the cuts and splices and re-installed using the factory service manual with no difficulty except for this, of course.

:eek2:  :shruggy:

Thanks Guys!  :2thumbs:




tan top

have you unpluged the dome lamp wiring from the connection down where lower door hinge bolts , try that !! 
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

HANDM

That's next on my list.....
Figured I'll leave it for a few and just mow the lawn instead.....So much less frustrating

A383Wing

Quote from: A383Wing on April 07, 2011, 10:05:56 PM
try unplugging the cig lighter

done this yet?

dome fuse is hot all the time..as is lighter, brake lights....

nascarxx29

Also if you have the optional trunk light its power feed is off the dome light circuit.Its a black wire
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

HANDM

Cig lighter unhooked....
I am going to unplug the dome/ console harness and check the trunk light wire as well......
Im down to my last fuse, wish me luck  :lol:
I'l post back any results, if any.

HANDM

No luck with disconections,  blew the last fuse  :brickwall:
At this point everything relating to the interior lighting has been disconected, so it seems that there is something up with the initial power going into the harness......




A383Wing

what color wire is connected to the door jam switches? Should be yellow...not the pink ones

Brock Lee

I had a problem like this and it was in my map light. I must have twisted the new bulb in hard and rotated the socket so one of the legs on the back was touching the dash frame and shorting out.

HANDM

Figured out that the console wiring harness is whats causing that fuse to blow, yanked it out, dome and map light no longer blow that fuse.

Now I have the headlights blowing their fuse, removed the buzzer no luck, disconnected the main headlight harness, no luck....

Thinking that mayhap the switch?

A383Wing

headlights are not on a fuse in the fuse block....they have a circuit breaker inside the switch

HANDM

It's the tail lamp fuse that keeps blowing, I see that the wire L8-18P runs up to the headlight switch and the other to the lighter (unhooked)......   

The taillight harness is new and the brake lights and turn signals work.......

Is this sounding like the switch, the harness, a ground issue or all three?

Thanks for the help guys  :2thumbs:

nascarxx29

  A ground issue wouldnt blow the fuse.And if brake and turn signals work properly.Cant see the turn signal switch being bad .As when turn signal switch acts up you lose all brake lights.Or you only get one side
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

FJMG

One member touched on this above and here is another story to back that post up. My brothers 74 dodge p/u was driving him crazy when he put it back together after paint. I was out of town and advised him to disconnect at main connects and energize circuits direct from a battery to try to isolate problems and he still could not get it to work. When I got back in town there were wires everywhere. Long story short, someone inadvertently inserted an 1156 into the 1157 slot in one new taillight that he bought, this in turn energizes just about everything else in the fuseblock from the wrong side of the fuse. So make sure EVERY single bulb in your car is correct.

HANDM

Hmmm....good idea, I bought the e-bay bulb kit and mayhap have an issue there......I'll go check it out  :2thumbs:




BananaDan

I bought the eBay bulb kit also and it has a lot of errors.  I luckily have my old harnesses with the old bulbs so I compared each one before I installed them.  Those interior screw kits also have errors.

Dan
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