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Author Topic: Roof Skin Replacement  (Read 7244 times)
rikubot
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« on: April 29, 2017, 09:00:20 PM »

Hi fellers

I recently ripped my bubbling vinyl top off and discovered  a rusted through roof skin. Luckily, AMD makes a replacement skin. I've read that it fits well on the old metal. I've done a little research and have found that it is quite the project. Both the windshield and back glass come out, and a couple hundred spot welds need to be drilled or ground out. I'm not sure yet if the drip rails are okay or not as the skin is still on the roof. My plan is to get all the tools and parts ready, then cut the old one off and swap it over. I was also lucky to find new window gaskets for under $100 for both. What I'd like from you guys is advice, past experiences, or thread links relevant to the project. I have a buddy who has most of the tools I will need (I think) so that will be a huge help. I've never worked with metal like this before so this is all new to me. Thanks guys!
-Mike
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'69 Charger, 440/727
Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2017, 05:45:45 AM »

There is an old thread around ( oooooold one ) where somebody asked about the same and somebody replied with pics making the same job on a 68 Satellite. I'm not good using the board search engine, but you'll find the answers there... if you or anybody else finds the thread
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
70 sublime
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next project 1969 Charger 383 auto


« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2017, 08:17:44 AM »

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=104414.200

might be a start
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current project 69 Charger Daytona clone F6 green
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green
rikubot
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« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2017, 10:51:41 AM »

There is an old thread around ( oooooold one ) where somebody asked about the same and somebody replied with pics making the same job on a 68 Satellite. I'm not good using the board search engine, but you'll find the answers there... if you or anybody else finds the thread

Thank you for the info. That would be ideal. Like you, I also can't figure out this search engine. It seems pretty terrible to be honest.
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'69 Charger, 440/727
rikubot
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« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2017, 10:53:04 AM »


Thank you thank you thank you! I've already learned a lot from that one and I've only been through half of it. Damn that charger was rough. That guy was a saint for taking that on.
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2017, 11:34:34 AM »

I didn't clicked on that link before!... damn! that thing was bad... the 68 Satellite I'm talking about wasn't so bad
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
rikubot
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« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2017, 12:10:15 PM »

I didn't clicked on that link before!... damn! that thing was bad... the 68 Satellite I'm talking about wasn't so bad

I can only hope the metal under my roof skin isn't that bad!
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gtx6970
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« Reply #7 on: April 30, 2017, 02:57:10 PM »

Worst part is going to be getting the roof skin out from under the quarter panels once all the lead is removed. And that alone is not an easy task
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rikubot
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« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2017, 07:20:29 PM »

Worst part is going to be getting the roof skin out from under the quarter panels once all the lead is removed. And that alone is not an easy task

I thought they went over the top? I read somewhere that the roof was the last piece on...
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darbgnik
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« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2017, 11:34:16 PM »

Worst part is going to be getting the roof skin out from under the quarter panels once all the lead is removed. And that alone is not an easy task

I thought they went over the top? I read somewhere that the roof was the last piece on...

Yes the roof skin goes over top of the quarters, at least it sure looks like it in the pics of my car when it was in the body shop........
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
gtx6970
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« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2017, 02:21:33 PM »

I put quarters on a 68 Charger and Im pretty sure the roof was under the tab of the quarter panel.
Its been a little while I did that part of it so I could be wrong
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rikubot
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« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2017, 02:50:19 PM »

I don't know my a$$ from a hole in the ground on the subject. Just regurgitating what I read somewhere. I'm actually pretty excited to get this roof skin swapped out. I don't think it will matter much whether it's on top or under the quarters, it's probably still gonna be a bitch.
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rikubot
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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2017, 10:19:58 PM »

Anybody have any suggestions on what the best glue/adhesive is for when the glass gets reinstalled?
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'69 Charger, 440/727
Dreamcar
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« Reply #13 on: May 03, 2017, 10:30:22 AM »

Anybody have any suggestions on what the best glue/adhesive is for when the glass gets reinstalled?

I'm in the process of putting my car back together now...new quarters with a donor roof skin. You can see the donor here:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,110598.0.html

pm me if you have any specifics about the roof skin itself....and it does go over the quarter panels. There is a lot of led in the seam so remove it carefully. Its toxic stuff. I would suggest welding the seam shut too, which is my plan. 
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #14 on: May 03, 2017, 02:56:50 PM »

Very much appreciated dreamcar. How come they didn't weld that seam from the factory? Slow/difficult finishing?
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'69 Charger, 440/727
Dreamcar
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« Reply #15 on: May 03, 2017, 03:52:08 PM »

Very much appreciated dreamcar. How come they didn't weld that seam from the factory? Slow/difficult finishing?

Not sure why, but here's a pic of where the spot welds were and the obvious signs of the seam having been buried in lead. The holes are on the edge of the roof skin at the quarter seam.

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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #16 on: May 03, 2017, 04:36:15 PM »

So that real clean metal there was where the lead was covering. I saw a picture of my friend's '69 and with original Copper paint and you could clearly see bulging where the seam was. I heard from a shop that you can't bondo then there because bondo shrinks. I think my buddy with the Scamp redid his with more lead...I think I will just bondo mine without welding as I intend on doing the quarters in the near future. My car is a driver and I try to do most of the repair stuff in a way that doesn't keep it off the road for very long.
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Dreamcar
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« Reply #17 on: May 03, 2017, 04:53:43 PM »

So that real clean metal there was where the lead was covering. I saw a picture of my friend's '69 and with original Copper paint and you could clearly see bulging where the seam was. I heard from a shop that you can't bondo then there because bondo shrinks. I think my buddy with the Scamp redid his with more lead...I think I will just bondo mine without welding as I intend on doing the quarters in the near future. My car is a driver and I try to do most of the repair stuff in a way that doesn't keep it off the road for very long.

Bondo without welding?Huh? The unwelded roof skin will move and the bondo will crack, so you're just wasting your time. Are you getting full quarters or just skins/patches?? If full quarters, don't do the roof first. If you weld the entire seam you will likely not need much bondo so a good quality fiberglass filler followed by regular filler, both applied very lightly, should not shrink that much with proper curing time. Also, if your putting a vinyl top on its extra hiding. Get your plan well figured out first.
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #18 on: May 03, 2017, 04:59:40 PM »

I was planning on doing the whole quarter. My driver side quarter is made up of a few poorly repaired panels over the years. The reason I decided to tackle the roof skin first is because it has substantial holes in it from the rust caused by the vinyl top. I don't have a garage, so it made sense to me to get that squared away first. I've found through the forums on here that quarter replacement is substantially more involved. Do you have any suggestions? Maybe a few spot welds on the seam? I don't think I will be able to do the quarters for at least a little while. I'm currently looking to buy a house and a garage is high up on the list...
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Dreamcar
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« Reply #19 on: May 03, 2017, 05:11:41 PM »

I was planning on doing the whole quarter. My driver side quarter is made up of a few poorly repaired panels over the years. The reason I decided to tackle the roof skin first is because it has substantial holes in it from the rust caused by the vinyl top. I don't have a garage, so it made sense to me to get that squared away first. I've found through the forums on here that quarter replacement is substantially more involved. Do you have any suggestions? Maybe a few spot welds on the seam? I don't think I will be able to do the quarters for at least a little while. I'm currently looking to buy a house and a garage is high up on the list...

Filling the seam up with weld (I'll be doing that) then a little filler would likely be your best bet. Eastwood sells a lead replacement but I'm going with trusted high quality filler. You could try actual lead but it can be toxic.

Like we've said, the roof skin goes over the quarter, so when you get to replacing the full quarters, whatever roof repair in the seam area will be undone. If you get a new AMD roof skin (they are not cheap), you'll be cutting it up when the new quarters are put in.

Maybe do a patch repair on your roof until you can do the new quarters and roof skin at the same time, which is the best way imo.
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #20 on: May 03, 2017, 05:29:42 PM »

I actually just ordered a roof skin from Summit. $730 shipped. That is a LOT of money for me. I may have to reconsider my strategy.
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Dreamcar
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« Reply #21 on: May 03, 2017, 05:49:36 PM »

A few things to consider if you're replacing the entire roof skin as one piece without cutting up your new AMD panel...

1 - The roof skin has about 2-300 spot welds going around it that need to be carefully drilled out or removed in some other way.
2 - The glass will need to removed.
3 - There are not only seams at the back (quarters), but also on the windshield posts up front. They are also filled with lead from the factory.
4 - The stainless trim will have to removed from the drip rails.
5 - Seams need to be filled (with weld, fiberglass filler, whatever) the primed or water/moisture gets in.
6 - If your car is like most (and mine) with rust issues, the more you remove/dig, the more damage you may find that will need to be addressed before you can continue with your original plan.  

For all these reasons, I would not use a new one-piece AMD roof panel before doing the quarter repairs. I would do a quick fix now (patches with basic sheet-metal pieces) until you are ready to do the entire job properly patiently in a garage. Keep the new roof panel until you are ready for it. Again, PM me if you need to.
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #22 on: May 03, 2017, 07:46:26 PM »

I really appreciate all of the advice. I didn't grow up around any of this kind of stuff, so you guys are all I've got. Getting a house with a garage will be key for me. Really, body work is the only thing I have left on the car. Coincidentally it seems to also be the most difficult and most time consuming. Probably most expensive as well. Again, thanks for the advice and links and for being an open book
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Dreamcar
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« Reply #23 on: May 03, 2017, 08:07:17 PM »

I really appreciate all of the advice. I didn't grow up around any of this kind of stuff, so you guys are all I've got. Getting a house with a garage will be key for me. Really, body work is the only thing I have left on the car. Coincidentally it seems to also be the most difficult and most time consuming. Probably most expensive as well. Again, thanks for the advice and links and for being an open book

I've got tones of help on this forum so it's only fair that I help when I can. Good luck with the work!
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
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« Reply #24 on: May 04, 2017, 09:43:54 AM »

I actually just ordered a roof skin from Summit. $730 shipped. That is a LOT of money for me. I may have to reconsider my strategy.

Get used to it, as it seems every charger part is $1000 lol

When we changed the roof skin and gutters on my 70 we even had to remake the inner part of the roof where the gutters spot weld on as there was nothing left. Pics in my restoration thread. Also had to change the front are rear roof inner section. She was a rusty one.

The plan was to find a solid used cut off as to be able to salvage all. Figured easy enough to find(5 years ago now) but nope couldnt find one so went AMD route.
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