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Author Topic: Roof Skin Replacement  (Read 7245 times)
rikubot
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« Reply #25 on: May 04, 2017, 03:08:34 PM »

I'm very bad at using this website. How do I get to your resto thread??
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'69 Charger, 440/727
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next project 1969 Charger 383 auto


« Reply #26 on: May 04, 2017, 04:58:44 PM »

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=110598.0
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current project 69 Charger Daytona clone F6 green
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green
charger_fan_4ever
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« Reply #27 on: May 05, 2017, 07:26:52 AM »

I'm very bad at using this website. How do I get to your resto thread??

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,71829.25.html
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rikubot
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« Reply #28 on: May 05, 2017, 02:24:31 PM »

Thanks for the link Fan. You are an absolute beast when it comes to body work and work ethic. That car is lucky to have ended up in your mitts. Any more updates on her?? The people need more!
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'69 Charger, 440/727
charged2dmax
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« Reply #29 on: May 07, 2017, 07:05:47 PM »

hello in regards to replacing skin on roof i just fininished repacing a bad roof on my 69 charger. it is work but can be done if you are patient and have some skill level  you will need a spotwelder , electric drill  harborfrieght sells the tool for removing old spotwelds  double endended remover tool  but 2 of them this is the most work to the job  i took a wire wheel to all the joints drilled a .187 in center of old spotwelds . also spend the extra money to replace driprails   im guessing about 150 spotwelds or 2 cases of beer . also i spent about $30 on small snap clamps at harbor freight   tackwelded half inch strips on the clamps  to hold the roof in position  critical check dimensions b4 and after in place  critical  also use adhesive on crossrails to hold skin tight acrossed the center do this once you are satisfied with positioning  i used a paint pen once i had in place  to mark positioning scribing lines as far as the where the skin meets rear i cut the old area out saved material and custum cut back into place     yes another joint to weld but big deal . i used amd metal $700  $100 shipping doohhhh . worth it  you will have to do a little cutting on the rear panels and finessing but im happy with the results   fyi  b4 removing the driprails fab a template to reposition the new rails  to assure proper angularity. hope this helps

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rikubot
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« Reply #30 on: May 07, 2017, 08:04:35 PM »

Yes that helps very much. So your drip rails were in pretty bad shape then? How was the structure underneath the skin?
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'69 Charger, 440/727
rikubot
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« Reply #31 on: May 09, 2017, 10:57:37 PM »

I am afraid I might also need the front cowl structure under the roof skin. I can't really tell yet as there is too much metal in the way. Anyone know where I might get one? I can't seem to find a reproduction piece anywhere. Again, I'm not sure if I need it yet, but I like to plan for the worst..
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'69 Charger, 440/727
Dreamcar
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« Reply #32 on: May 10, 2017, 04:44:09 AM »

This is the front cowl...the roof skin doesn't come close to it. Is this what you mean?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Metal-Direct/106/360-1466/10002/-1

If you mean the brace at the very front that forms part of the windshield structure too, there is no repro that I know of. You'll have to find a donor and probably all b body mopars have the same piece/brace. Unless you find one locally, I'd wait to see before buying one. I do have one but the shipping cost alone from Canada will be expensive. Besides, if yours is not that bad you can simply repair it.
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #33 on: May 10, 2017, 07:26:07 AM »

I must sound very ignorant when I post questions. I should have gone with my gut and said "front roof bow." I saw it called a "cowl" on here somewhere and it didn't sound right but I went with it anyway.  At least I would have been a little closer lol. But yes, you are correct. That's good to know that all B-bodies had the same structure. I believe we may have a couple 4-door cars at a yard here in town if it comes to that. I can see a small bit of mine through the roof skin holes but I won't know for sure how bad the damage is until I get a wirewheel on it. I don't think it's nearly as bad as the one in this picture:



* IMG_8271.JPG (69.72 KB, 640x480 - viewed 396 times.)
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'69 Charger, 440/727
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« Reply #34 on: May 10, 2017, 08:29:58 AM »

I must sound very ignorant when I post questions. I should have gone with my gut and said "front roof bow." I saw it called a "cowl" on here somewhere and it didn't sound right but I went with it anyway.  At least I would have been a little closer lol. But yes, you are correct. That's good to know that all B-bodies had the same structure. I believe we may have a couple 4-door cars at a yard here in town if it comes to that. I can see a small bit of mine through the roof skin holes but I won't know for sure how bad the damage is until I get a wirewheel on it. I don't think it's nearly as bad as the one in this picture:



I believe they all have the same structure...but I'm not 100% certain. Either way, if you have one that is near identical, it can probably be modified with a few strategic cuts and bends. Besides, people have been restoring all types of cars for years and many without the benefit of the repro market we have for Chargers. Good luck cheers
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
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« Reply #35 on: May 10, 2017, 11:50:42 AM »

I must sound very ignorant when I post questions. I should have gone with my gut and said "front roof bow." I saw it called a "cowl" on here somewhere and it didn't sound right but I went with it anyway.  At least I would have been a little closer lol. But yes, you are correct. That's good to know that all B-bodies had the same structure. I believe we may have a couple 4-door cars at a yard here in town if it comes to that. I can see a small bit of mine through the roof skin holes but I won't know for sure how bad the damage is until I get a wirewheel on it. I don't think it's nearly as bad as the one in this picture:



Yes she was crusty lol

66-70 b body the front roof bows are all the same along with upper/lower cowl and door hinge pillars. We had to change the rear bow also. Its been awhile, but i want to say the rear one is 68-70 charger specific.



Thanks for the link Fan. You are an absolute beast when it comes to body work and work ethic. That car is lucky to have ended up in your mitts. Any more updates on her?? The people need more!


Shes making the final leg of the race this year. Been a crazy 3 years. My mom passed away from the big C. We had our first born in 2015 with #2 due in 2 months. Had to put a new waterwell in at our house. Charger been on the back burner. I sold one of my other toys to make a place in the garage for it to come home to. Loosened up some funds to finish it aswell.

 Found a correct cast date 440 engine to drop in sitting on an engine stand now. I bought a 4 speed set up for it this winter. Going to have to revisit the floor to put a 4 speed hump in lol. Complete legendary interior ready to go in with rechromed front bumper and a new amd rear bumper. Only parts i still need to buy are the rear upper door pads,weatherstrip kit, exhaust,brake lines.(thinking im going to upgrade to manual discs in the front.)

Have new leafs and front suspension ready to go in. Rear diff been rebuilt. Going to put it back as a roller to finish the body work first.
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rikubot
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« Reply #36 on: May 10, 2017, 05:18:53 PM »

"Was" being the key word there. Your car really lucked out by finding its way into your hands. Your thread is very helpful and I'm glad you took the time to take and post pictures. Many thanks  notworthy  I do also believe the rear is different. I think the AMD site has it labeled "68-70 Charger only" or something along those lines. Makes sense considering the unique shape of the sail panels.

Very sorry to hear that, I saw you mentioned it in your post. Life loves to throw everything at us all at once. Glad you are back at your labor of love. Congrats on the new little one. Very excited to see your new pieces of the puzzle. I upgraded to power disc a couple months ago and it was $1000 well spent in my opinion. I went with 11" discs and the trapezoid dual diaphragm booster with the Hemi master that they just started repopping. 10x2.5" drums in back. She had 11x3" drums up front so naturally she stops waaaay better. I think she might stop even better if I lose the metering valve. I'm sure we are all excited to see your progress!
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'69 Charger, 440/727
charger_fan_4ever
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« Reply #37 on: May 11, 2017, 09:30:12 AM »

"Was" being the key word there. Your car really lucked out by finding its way into your hands. Your thread is very helpful and I'm glad you took the time to take and post pictures. Many thanks  notworthy  I do also believe the rear is different. I think the AMD site has it labeled "68-70 Charger only" or something along those lines. Makes sense considering the unique shape of the sail panels.

Very sorry to hear that, I saw you mentioned it in your post. Life loves to throw everything at us all at once. Glad you are back at your labor of love. Congrats on the new little one. Very excited to see your new pieces of the puzzle. I upgraded to power disc a couple months ago and it was $1000 well spent in my opinion. I went with 11" discs and the trapezoid dual diaphragm booster with the Hemi master that they just started repopping. 10x2.5" drums in back. She had 11x3" drums up front so naturally she stops waaaay better. I think she might stop even better if I lose the metering valve. I'm sure we are all excited to see your progress!

Thanks man.

Where did you buy your brake kit ?
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six-tee-nine
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« Reply #38 on: May 11, 2017, 11:01:36 AM »

I replaced my skin myself.
I know my stuff a little when it comes to welding and body work. When its a complete dismantled car its not to hard, but on a complete driving car its another story. You need to melt the old lead, cut the skin out and weld in a new one without ruining your other paintwork and interior. Thats not gonna be easy.
On a side note, the AMD skin fits fairly well.
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Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...

rikubot
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« Reply #39 on: May 11, 2017, 03:22:47 PM »

@Charger Fan, I got my kit through Classic Industries. I did basically the factory kit. Came with the non pin style caliper and that was kind of a bummer. But vented and slotted rotors, steel braided lines with coupons cost me 485 I think. Then I went through pirate jack for the booster and master. Summit for the distribution block.

@ '69, that's cool, my car is in need of a full resto so I'm not real worried about damaging or scuffing stuff. But it's always great to know that the skin fits well. Mine is currently sitting in my turtle room haha
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rikubot
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« Reply #40 on: May 13, 2017, 09:05:53 AM »

It looks like the factory used seam sealer to glue the roof skin to the roof braces. You guys have any recommendations? Should I use anything to seal the windshield around the new rubber gasket?
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« Reply #41 on: May 13, 2017, 03:36:09 PM »

It looks like the factory used seam sealer to glue the roof skin to the roof braces. You guys have any recommendations? Should I use anything to seal the windshield around the new rubber gasket?

I posted on an autobody forum...I asked if that was a specialty product other than seam sealer, and it appears all it is is seam sealer. I'll need to know soon anyway.
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #42 on: May 13, 2017, 04:49:52 PM »

Thank you for doing that Dreamcar. Dang, I sure am glad that's all there is, especially since it's $45 for 200ml!! Sorry for the sarcasm haha. But that 3M stuff is expensive no matter what liquid it is. They say it's the best though.
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« Reply #43 on: May 13, 2017, 05:07:06 PM »

Thank you for doing that Dreamcar. Dang, I sure am glad that's all there is, especially since it's $45 for 200ml!! Sorry for the sarcasm haha. But that 3M stuff is expensive no matter what liquid it is. They say it's the best though.

This is what the body expert said regarding different types...he was talking about Lord Fusor stuff..."The problem with a lot of the "seam sealer" products is that they are solvent based and as it ages it hardens and cracks. The Fusor is moisture cured urethane that remains flexible"

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=FUSSS&Category_Code=JASS
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #44 on: May 13, 2017, 06:53:55 PM »

That's not too bad. Is it okay to use that for the drip rails and ribs? Thanks for the link!
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« Reply #45 on: May 13, 2017, 07:09:35 PM »

That's not too bad. Is it okay to use that for the drip rails and ribs? Thanks for the link!

From what I've been told, I'd use self leveling seam sealer for the drip rails.
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
six-tee-nine
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« Reply #46 on: May 15, 2017, 12:04:19 PM »

I drilled small holes in the drip rail on the new roof skin and but welded the panel that way. Cleaning the welds afterwards and filling the rest up with a tiny amount of filler to straighten it all out. Sealed and primed it to laters have a nice result after its all painted. But I'm going for a vinyl top delete resto.

If I'd do it over today I'd use some of that 2K panel bonding adhesive. I used that on my new deck filler panel because I was to dumb to replace it the first time and I did'nt want welding spatter into my newly painted trunk. I was surprised by the strength and quality of those modern products. That would of saved me alot of welding and grinding time and make the process of sealing and straightening out alot easier.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,107225.25.html

Wich makes me think its over 2 years since I posted an update and not even all that much more there is to show......How life can get in the way sometimes
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Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

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« Reply #47 on: May 15, 2017, 12:27:32 PM »

I drilled small holes in the drip rail on the new roof skin and but welded the panel that way. Cleaning the welds afterwards and filling the rest up with a tiny amount of filler to straighten it all out. Sealed and primed it to laters have a nice result after its all painted. But I'm going for a vinyl top delete resto.

If I'd do it over today I'd use some of that 2K panel bonding adhesive. I used that on my new deck filler panel because I was to dumb to replace it the first time and I did'nt want welding spatter into my newly painted trunk. I was surprised by the strength and quality of those modern products. That would of saved me alot of welding and grinding time and make the process of sealing and straightening out alot easier.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,107225.25.html

Wich makes me think its over 2 years since I posted an update and not even all that much more there is to show......How life can get in the way sometimes

I've used panel adhesive on select parts too. It's amazing stuff. But it will expand at a different rate in the sun and make ghost lines, so where it's applied matters. I wouldn't use it for a structural piece either. But for some jobs, definitely.
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
rikubot
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« Reply #48 on: May 16, 2017, 12:09:33 AM »

Do you have any recommendations for an epoxy primer in an aerosol can?
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« Reply #49 on: May 16, 2017, 05:23:55 AM »

Do you have any recommendations for an epoxy primer in an aerosol can?

Eastwood and Spaymax are the only ones I know that make it but I've never used it.
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"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
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