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Author Topic: Newer type alternator. Pics.  (Read 18511 times)
Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #50 on: December 03, 2009, 11:56:02 AM »

it should SHORT OUT and BURNT EVERYTHING in fact... unless regulator was damaged or isolated from firewall and not sending negative.

what did happen ? dunno
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #51 on: December 03, 2009, 11:58:51 AM »

one question... what regulator do you have ?
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #52 on: December 03, 2009, 12:02:10 PM »

It's a 70's and newer electronic regulator, silver with two prongs that connect to the blue and green wire.  I cannot figure out how that system worked with both positive and negative hooked up together...
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #53 on: December 03, 2009, 12:09:00 PM »

maybe short blown the regulator faster than burnt everything around ?

here is the basic diagram I made long time ago


* laters chargsystem.jpg (53.3 KB, 1003x857 - viewed 779 times.)
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #54 on: December 03, 2009, 12:11:34 PM »

Yup, and that's the diagram I used a year ago when I set this system up.  Thanks for that by the way.  So, I guess I'll have the voltage regulator tested to see if this one is bad too. 

Another question though: if I had the positive and negative hooked up together and it killed the voltage regulator, how was the system able to give me 13 to 14 volts of power? 
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #55 on: December 03, 2009, 02:48:03 PM »

good question... I can't say really how did work
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #56 on: December 03, 2009, 05:23:22 PM »

Jeeeeeeeeeeeeez I fixed it.  I went back to autozone, tested the regulator that I just bought yesterday and it turns out that one was bad too. Now, whether it was bad because it came that way, or it got ruined because I hooked up the green and blue wires on the same terminal on the 'alt I'll never know.  All I know is I can't figure out why the car ran fine for over a year with both green and blue wires on the same terminal.  I hope this isn't a fluke and it really is fixed.  When the car cools down I'm going to re-do my wiring job; too many splices and butt connectors.

14.2 volts in idle, yay!
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #57 on: December 03, 2009, 06:37:27 PM »

great!!!!
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #58 on: December 03, 2009, 07:31:11 PM »

Man, I really need to learn how to solder.  Do you guys prefer to solder or crimp and tape?  Is one method better than the other? 
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dkn1997
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« Reply #59 on: December 03, 2009, 08:11:32 PM »

I prefer to use either non insulated terminals or I simply remove the insulating colored sleeve of the ones from the autoparts store.   The reason I like them non insulated is that you get a really good crimp on them.  I then follow up with heat shrink tubing.  besides the fact that I think it's better than the insulated crap you buy from the parts store, I think it looks very nice.

here is a pic of an aux fuse box I put in to run my hella headlights, dual fans, and electric fuel pump. you have to look close, but you can see it. 


* fuseboxdone11122121212.JPG (76.52 KB, 653x490 - viewed 712 times.)
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FLG
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« Reply #60 on: December 03, 2009, 08:12:57 PM »

I agree, the non isolated stuff with some heat shrink tubing looks best! I have somoe of the other crap and hate it, the few i did "correctly" look nice.
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #61 on: December 03, 2009, 08:32:31 PM »

I crimp AND sold and using heat shrink tubes.. couple of them to give some thickness

there are some molds around to fill with some liquid rubber or silicone, to give a better stock look.
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #62 on: December 03, 2009, 08:41:11 PM »

Yeah, I had a feeling that was the way to go: crimp, solder, then heatshrink, using un-insulated connectors of course.  Madelectrical's website even says as much.  Although I must say that none of the parts stores around here sell un-insulated connectors.  I hate to have to buy that stuff online.

So I just tied everything up and the car's running great.  Question though: isn't voltage supposed to drop as RPM drops?  My voltage either stays the same or INCREASES as my RPM drops.  When my RPM's go up, my voltage will either stay the same or drop a little.  Either way, at idle with lights and brakes on I'm still getting 14.3 or more volts.  How high is too high though?  I turned on my high beams and then suddenly I started seeing 15 volts at the voltmeter...
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #63 on: December 03, 2009, 09:12:53 PM »

if power is being satisfied, no matter the RPMs, will stay the same.
variation happens when some unbalancing is around.

power is increased or decreased by car or battery demands. Controled by regulator

headlighst SPECIALLY if high consumption ones, will demand more power coming from alt, so alternator will compesante that ordered by regulator.

My voltage either stays the same or INCREASES as my RPM drops

is increased at low RPMs being iddling is harder to keep feeding more stablish the consumption demand. Thats why I say, IDDLE FEEDING/CHARGING CAPACITY is what helps on keep a healthy ( sp? ) charging system
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #64 on: December 03, 2009, 09:49:00 PM »

Makes sense.  Now I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on all of it.  So 15 volts isn't too high, is it?  It doesn't go there unless I put on all lights, brakes and high beams, but I just want to make sure...
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #65 on: December 03, 2009, 10:19:30 PM »

BATTERY specs is what will say how much safe is 15 volts, but tipically 13.5 to 14 it should be the normal voltage operation with an alt feeding. Quite often even some 14.5 peak

I'm not THE expert, just a little but experience about that.

peaks will blown more frequently bulbs around
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #66 on: December 05, 2009, 01:43:48 AM »

Well, spent the day driving the Charger and it was getting a constant 14.2v or higher.  When the lights came on the volts would occasionally hit 15.  I gotta ask again, isn't 15v a little much?  

How the hell did I go from not charging enough to too much, lol...
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FLG
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« Reply #67 on: December 05, 2009, 02:10:33 AM »

Ive been running near or at 15 for the past 2 years ive had my charger...and im sure before i bought it, it was doing the same. No issues at all. Check your voltage at a light source or somewhere other than the battery, between the old wiring, connectors, splices..ect it will prob be less.
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #68 on: December 05, 2009, 10:53:53 AM »

maybe regulator is a race kind ? yes 15V is a little bit much
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #69 on: December 05, 2009, 10:58:37 AM »

Nope, it's an off-the-shelf regulator from Autozone, part #VR133.  It's the stock VR replacement for all Mopars from '70 up to like, '95 or something.  If it wasn't for the twin 10 gauge wire I'm running from the output on the 'alt to the starter relay I'm sure my wiring would've fried by now...
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #70 on: December 05, 2009, 11:03:44 AM »

volts won't fry the system, don't worry. Amperes consumption is what will fry. You can get even 220 volts by just one filament of any wire
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
myk
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« Reply #71 on: December 05, 2009, 11:06:54 AM »

That's true.  Well, it usually only goes up to 15 when the lights, brake and high beams are getting used so it doesn't happen all of the time.

This is the best my charging system has ever worked in the 15 years I've owned the car, and I owe it all to you guys-thanks again...
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myk
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« Reply #72 on: December 07, 2009, 04:02:37 AM »



here is a pic of an aux fuse box I put in to run my hella headlights, dual fans, and electric fuel pump. you have to look close, but you can see it. 

Your setup really interests me.  So, I'm guessing you run a fat power wire from the 'alt and then just feed the lights, fans, pump, etc from the fuse box?  I've just completed the headlight relay upgrade, but my 'alt output stud is crowded-there are 4 terminals crammed on to that one stud, lol.  How else were you powering your accessories before this fuse box?  What made you decide to install the fuse box?

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dkn1997
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« Reply #73 on: December 07, 2009, 08:25:54 AM »



here is a pic of an aux fuse box I put in to run my hella headlights, dual fans, and electric fuel pump. you have to look close, but you can see it. 

Your setup really interests me.  So, I'm guessing you run a fat power wire from the 'alt and then just feed the lights, fans, pump, etc from the fuse box?  I've just completed the headlight relay upgrade, but my 'alt output stud is crowded-there are 4 terminals crammed on to that one stud, lol.  How else were you powering your accessories before this fuse box?  What made you decide to install the fuse box?



I chose to do a fuse box because i wanted things simple.  It also allowed me to power everything I added to the car using none of the factory wiring.  I chose this box because it has a main power lug and main ground lug.  Once you run power and ground to it, wiring up the individual loads becomes very simple.  I used an 8g wire from the pos stud on the starter relay on the firewall.  This stud already had an 4g wire running from it right to the pos stud on the alternator. 

Here is the thread where went over the whole install:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,58543.0.html   

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myk
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« Reply #74 on: December 07, 2009, 10:35:54 AM »

Oh wow, thanks.  Simple to do but the benefits are immeasureable.  I can't see installing the relays without the weatherproofing so that's a great idea too.  I'll probably have to go your route because the electrical items will just keep getting added on.  What made you decide to run an electric fuel pump, by the way?  Does it have to be regulated?  Also, are you still running the mechanical fan along with the electrical fans?  Which H4 light kit did you use?  Has it started snowing in New York yet?  Lol...
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