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Author Topic: Some considerations about the charging and wiring upgrade and your worries about  (Read 63707 times)
b5blue
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« Reply #25 on: March 26, 2010, 05:24:06 AM »

At 700-900 RPM Amp output is not at max. rating, it needs to spin faster for that, more windings = more amps, even at idle.  icon_smile_big
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #26 on: March 26, 2010, 09:27:55 AM »

yeah, thats the reason why I used lates alts... windings are wider on these
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
b5blue
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« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2010, 03:23:42 PM »

Yea they are adding extra windings to the point they change the bushes mounting point. My system just holds on at idle with the lights on but turn on wipers and/or blower and everything suffers. Just tap the gas and everything jumps up fine right away but here with the humidity wipers and defog are always needed together.  eek
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b5blue
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« Reply #28 on: May 30, 2010, 06:35:52 AM »

As of end of May still no word from Quick-Start?  shruggy I gave up waiting and got 120 amp kit from Mancini.
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marktwain
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« Reply #29 on: June 04, 2012, 10:43:03 AM »

i just installed a GM alternator and did away with the external regulator.....10 years running...no problems!!!   65 AMP alternator by the way
  I am 1 step away from doing the same. I want to keep stock look ,done every modification on here,still problems with it. got a gm alt on my mutant 84 ramd50 with a 360 in it charging over 10 years and counting  brickwall RantExplode
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Cooter
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« Reply #30 on: June 04, 2012, 11:01:10 AM »

Yep, Gm 1 Wie and been doing great for over 20 years. I never run a Charysler alt. on anything but dedicated drag cars.
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" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"
Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #31 on: June 04, 2012, 10:08:24 PM »

around 6, maybe 7 years running what I did... everything perfect Wink, using now the 78 amps alt from BeckArnley
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
my73charger
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« Reply #32 on: June 10, 2012, 06:47:08 PM »

Question for Nacho.  Could you just run the parallel wires right up to the ampmeter and bolt on with the existing original wires?  Is there a reason you spliced at the ampmeter?
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #33 on: June 10, 2012, 08:24:40 PM »

Sorry didn't got the question
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
my73charger
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« Reply #34 on: June 10, 2012, 08:42:09 PM »

Are you splicing the new wire into the original wire right before the amp meter or are you attaching both wires to each stud on the amp meter?
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #35 on: June 11, 2012, 01:34:18 AM »

straight to studs.
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
my73charger
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« Reply #36 on: June 11, 2012, 04:32:26 AM »

Thanks Nacho!
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my73charger
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« Reply #37 on: June 14, 2012, 06:38:55 PM »

Would 10 ga wire work for both the black and red parallel wires?
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #38 on: June 17, 2012, 10:19:21 PM »

yes, specially keeping originals yet
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
my73charger
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« Reply #39 on: June 22, 2012, 05:12:45 AM »

Thanks Nacho.  I just finished this up.   cheers
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1974dodgecharger
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« Reply #40 on: May 20, 2013, 01:10:55 AM »

TTT

need to do some more reading before I plan to upgrade to 140amp one wire power master
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2Gunz
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« Reply #41 on: May 21, 2013, 06:50:03 PM »


Information about a newer alternator that i used can be found in this thread.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,19802.0.html
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #42 on: May 24, 2013, 07:41:10 AM »

need to update some stuff here:

THE FUSE LINK!

If you are running parallel wires, IS BETTER splice both red wires into one fuse link... thicker than the original. Original is 16 gauge... 14 gauge is nice

2 fuse links are good enough too, if they are not thick... something like 2 18s if your car is low options or maybe 1 18 on the stock and 1 16 on parallel ?. Two 16s are a little bit dangerous because is allmost like having one 12.

two thick fuse links will take TOO MUCH TIME to blown, and that time is enough to damage anything else on the car before blown
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
b5blue
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« Reply #43 on: July 26, 2014, 09:55:20 AM »

  Update FYI: The 120amp Denso has several years of use on it now with no issues using just the factory harness adapted to it. With my radio and cover plate out of the dash I have been able to monitor how hot the ALT gauge studs can get by reaching through the dash and holding the alt side stud with my fingers.
  The main point of this update is how rapidly heat can build up in relation to the degree the battery is discharged. Any battery needing more than a minute or two to recover from cranking the engine starts building heat at the Alt. side stud. Heat is seen electrically as resistance and that creates an "avalanche effect", more time more heat more resistance on and on. With the Denso able to output 60amp @ idle it flat gets down to business in short order. It's not an issue for me, I'll NEVER run a weak or discharged battery in ANY of my cars knowing cars are not engineered to recharge dead/discharged batteries only to replace the drain from "normal" starting.
  With even more powerful alternators, capable of over 100amp at idle I just want to warn others that even with the "ALT gauge bypass mod" these wires and connections can see a really rapid spike in heat as the battery is recharged.   
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #44 on: July 28, 2014, 10:51:06 AM »

Never with ANY kind of alt or  is good try to make a full recharge batt job on car, even less on full load ammeter equipped cars... Of course if is an emergency on the road, well, will need to keep an eye everywhere to keep it safe.

if needed on the road, is good to add some load on the recharge process ( maybe parking lights position ), to keep the ammeter getting a little bit relaxed
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
b5blue
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« Reply #45 on: July 28, 2014, 02:59:47 PM »

I now keep a jumper battery pack with me at all times also. (AAA card also.)  2thumbs
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #46 on: August 31, 2014, 11:21:46 AM »

since I'm on a deep body job, and engine will be removed, I have being searching again for a quick disconect system for the parallel wiring. I never have being able to find 8 or 10 gauge DECENT quick disconect terminals locally, but searching on the web found THIS:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111445882365

GREEEEEEEAT... with 24" I will be able to cut one LARGE end to fit eyelet terminals and run straight to the ammeter studs throught the grommets without any kind of splice...the short end to be spliced into engine bay existant parallel wiring...

there is also 10 gauge 2' and 10 gauge 4'.


will use 8 gauge setup because my parallel alt wire is already 8 gauge, but honestly keeping the stock 12 gauge in use, 10 gauge is quite enough to the parallel

the other idea was to fit junction double side studs to go through the firewall

http://www.geppowerproducts.com/product/cview/3_8_pass_thru_stud_commercial_grade

they are available even with isolation cap:

http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/jumperstuds.html

 but I didn't want to open holes on firewall. I'm using an existant grommet used for the AC harness on 74s to go thorugh the wirewall

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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
67tbird
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« Reply #47 on: August 31, 2014, 10:39:17 PM »

Would somebody please sticky this.  I've killed about 3 trees making and losing copies over the last two years. Which terminal gets which wire, my dash is so butchered that I have two red wires to my ammeter, is the post closest to the temp gauge get the black wire?
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b5blue
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« Reply #48 on: September 01, 2014, 05:34:41 AM »

to batt. is red from alt is black
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Ghoste
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« Reply #49 on: September 01, 2014, 09:06:52 AM »

An excellent example of why I much prefer the M&H harness with correct factory colors, lengths and terminals instead of a custom made harness.
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