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Author Topic: Cluster Restoration.  (Read 101594 times)
Tilar
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« Reply #50 on: January 17, 2008, 04:42:51 PM »

Mike,

In this picture that you posted, which happens to be the one I have... I took pics of this before I took it apart, but none of my pics show the correct assembly order. Undecided Most of it is self explanatory but I'm not certain about the copper wave washer and the plastic bushing. I'm assuming that the plastic bushing goes between the outer housing and the center terminal on the end terminal piece and then goes into the center ceramic of the rheostat. but I don't remember if the copper wave washer goes between the gear and the housing or the gear and the ceramic rheostat.





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Dave  

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lilwendal
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« Reply #51 on: January 17, 2008, 05:58:37 PM »

Mike,

In this picture that you posted, which happens to be the one I have... I took pics of this before I took it apart, but none of my pics show the correct assembly order. Undecided Most of it is self explanatory but I'm not certain about the copper wave washer and the plastic bushing. I'm assuming that the plastic bushing goes between the outer housing and the center terminal on the end terminal piece and then goes into the center ceramic of the rheostat. but I don't remember if the copper wave washer goes between the gear and the housing or the gear and the ceramic rheostat.






Yor correct with the white bushing.  It goes between the case and into the round copper extension of the terminal block.
The copper spring washer goes between the porcelain wheel and the grey gear.  It helps push the porcelain wheel on to the terminal contact.
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Tilar
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« Reply #52 on: January 17, 2008, 07:50:04 PM »

Thanks! And some day I'll learn the difference between Ceramic and porcelain  lol
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Dave  

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lilwendal
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« Reply #53 on: January 17, 2008, 10:34:50 PM »

No need to.  You already were correct. 2thumbs Porcelain is a ceramic.  I believe its just a higher grade. Grin
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Tilar
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« Reply #54 on: January 31, 2008, 06:03:36 PM »

Well, I finally managed to get back to work on my dimmer switch. I had the same problem you mention about not having contact between the coil and the copper disc. I tried cleaning it but it ended up eratic at best, Sooo I took some #12 copper stranded wire and cut two single strands out of it approx 1/2 inch long. I interweaved about 1/4 inch of each one into the coil and folded the other half of each wire across the top. Then I folded the copper disc back over it and put it together. Works great!

On the rivots, I drilled them with a #50 bit and tapped them to 2-56 and then put it together using allen head set screws with washers. Using that small of a hole left the shoulder on the rivot. I ground that shoulder just down enough to get below the top of the hole, which allowed me to tighten up the screws all the way.

The wheel actually looks pretty good, but when I send in the rest of the switches I'll take it back apart and send it in with them, Just to be sure they all match.



* P1011switch.JPG (29.43 KB, 293x480 - viewed 3515 times.)

* P1012switch.jpg (45.62 KB, 421x634 - viewed 3570 times.)
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gasoline_24
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« Reply #55 on: February 13, 2008, 10:25:48 PM »

Great job Lilwendel!  I was lazy and didn't want to under take this part of the resto.  I sent off a cluster with a cracked lens and a broken HL switch.  I got back a show quality dash that some day will look great in my car.  If I ever get it finished.  Fast turn around time and excellent work.  Thanks Mike for the great work.
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Ryan
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« Reply #56 on: February 14, 2008, 03:14:43 AM »

may I ask who replates your rockers for $15 each? I got quoted $105 each to get them plated, would have been over $400 for all of them Shocked
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69 charger r/t Triple Black
   493, 5 speed, 4.10 Dana

68 charger r/t PP1 Red / Black
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gasoline_24
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« Reply #57 on: February 14, 2008, 08:51:04 AM »

Not sure who he uses, but I know these guys do it for around that price.

http://www.cvvacuumplaters.com/mopar.htm

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lilwendal
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« Reply #58 on: February 14, 2008, 11:50:48 AM »

I send all rockers, wheels, buttons, and medallions to CV.
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Chatt69chgr
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« Reply #59 on: February 14, 2008, 12:20:29 PM »

Hey lilwendal------------I assume you remove the rockers, wheels, etc. from their respective swithes and mechanisms before you send them to cvvacuum platers and that they plate them and send them back.  I asked them about this in a e-mail in the past and they gave me some static about them having to remove the rockers.  I just want to make sure I understand that you are sending in just the plastic rocker part of the switch and wheel, etc.  And it cost's $15 each?  Are the buttons and wheels the same price?  I need to send all my stuff in to them to get plated is the reason I am asking.  Thanks and thanks for the great post you went to the trouble to provide us.  Not everyone wants to tackle the instrument panel but for those of us that do, your posts are very helpful.
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lilwendal
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« Reply #60 on: February 14, 2008, 06:38:11 PM »

Chatt,
Yes I send only what will be replated. I do not believe they will do the removals from the actual switches.
I used 15.00 as a refrence. There are some mild differences.  Usually the washer push button is 10.00 The 68 medallions can be 17.50.
But I believe I'm paying 15.00 for the rockers and wheels. Be advised I send several sets of switches a month to them. They currently have over 40 pieces of mine so maybe I'm getting a discount shruggy I have not checked thier web site pricing in a while.
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Chatt69chgr
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« Reply #61 on: February 14, 2008, 10:14:55 PM »

OK.  Sounds good.  I'll probably be sending some wheels and rocker swithes  to them pretty soon.  Just wanted to clarify this issue in my mind.
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RDR838
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« Reply #62 on: March 08, 2008, 10:00:44 AM »

And that speedo needle bushing... You must hold the magnetic wheel behind the face when you twist and pull the needle off or there is a very good chance of snapping the needle bushing that holds the return spring.  Break that and your looking for a new speedo.

Thank you for sharing all this information! It really helps a lot. Well or should I say it would have helped if I had read it before!

I did it: broke the needle bushing. Now I wonder: What exactly does this thing do? Does it only hold the spring? I tried to fix it this way: Drilled two holes right next to the spring and attached the spring to the metal bracket with some thread:



But: It doesn't work.
I think I spinned the spring 180 degrees to much, giving the needle too much pressure. Do you think if I retry it with 180 less spin it would work? I don't understand how this speedo works anyway - man - you should have seen my face when that thing broke! Argh!

the rest looks very nice so far (the additional oil pressure gauge was my test-object):


Thank you for any advice!

RDR838
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lilwendal
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« Reply #63 on: March 08, 2008, 11:23:22 PM »

The bushing serves 2 purposes. First to center and support the needle shaft.  Second to retain the return spring for the needle.
When it breaks the spring is permited to rotate and no longer returns the needle to the stop. 
If you can find a way to keep the spring from rotating then it should work. Yes there is a chance you have the spring wound too much causing additional tension.
I'm at work now but tomorrow I can post a pic of the correct position of the spring.
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Moparrulzzz
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« Reply #64 on: March 09, 2008, 12:35:35 PM »

 Lilwendall can you do the gauge faces in white if wanted. I have a cluster I need done and I am not going concourse here. Also you mentioned the cluster for '68 is different. I got my cluster off ebay and no idea what year it is. It does have the wood grain if that says anything.
 Thnx for the very informitive thread, learned alot I didn't know on how these things work! 2thumbs 2thumbs
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lilwendal
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« Reply #65 on: March 09, 2008, 05:40:06 PM »

White is not a problem. The woodgrain is a 69/70 option but that does not mean the bezel was not swapped at one time either.
The thread talks about how to distinguish between the cluster housing differences from 68 and 69/70.
PM me if you need any further help.
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RDR838
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« Reply #66 on: March 11, 2008, 12:49:27 PM »

broke the needle bushing. Now I wonder: What exactly does this thing do? Does it only hold the spring? I tried to fix it this way: Drilled two holes right next to the spring and attached the spring to the metal bracket with some thread:

But: It doesn't work.

I think I spinned the spring 180 degrees to much, giving the needle too much pressure. Do you think if I retry it with 180 less spin it would work?

Okay, tried everything, there's no chance to repair it. I got a 'new' speedo from a friend. The odometer doesn't work in the new one, but that's better than no speedo  scratchchin

So to all of you trying to restore your speedo: Read the instructions well and hold the wheel (see picture) that's connected to the needle firmly, pressing it slightly towards the back of the speedo when taking off the needle by carefully turning it below '0' until it's loose! If you don't, the plastic bushing will break (like in the picture, in the circle)

Take care

RDR838


* brokenspeedo.jpg (75.96 KB, 600x450 - viewed 3577 times.)
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runningman
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« Reply #67 on: March 13, 2008, 06:15:54 PM »

This is an unbelievable thread.  There is a ton of good information here.  I think I am actually going to tackle this project now.  I haven't read through it 100% but was there mention of replacing the bulbs with LED lighting?  This was something I was going to have Redline do.  Also I didn't see anything about calibrating the tach, is this something done easily?  My apologies if this was included and I missed it.  Thanks!  Matt
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lilwendal
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« Reply #68 on: March 15, 2008, 08:05:51 PM »

Never played with the LED stuff.
On the tach.... They are both adjustable. The RTE board more so than the original.
Below you see the RTE board on the left and the original on the right.  With the original the larger silver pot with the cross in the middle. A small screw driver can be used to make adjustments to the original tachs indication.
On the RTE board there are two adjustable pots that will tweek the indication at 1K and 4K. They also sell a calipration chip that removes the need to have the tach wired into a running vehicle.
On the original tach the adjustments need to be made with the back can off the tach. Then with a known good test tachometer you match the RPMs up while the vehicle is running.
This same method can be used onthe RTE board as well. Two small screws on the top of the grey pots.


* taky.jpg (148.29 KB, 640x480 - viewed 3502 times.)
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runningman
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« Reply #69 on: October 08, 2008, 02:14:27 PM »

Thanks again for the info, I am going to order the tach board and cal chip from RTE in the next couple of weeks.  Do you know the size of the rivets needed?  I am going to order from Hansons.  Thanks

Matt
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runningman
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« Reply #70 on: October 08, 2008, 02:19:58 PM »

Is this the instrument place you were referring to?  http://www.clocksandgauges.com/
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bull
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« Reply #71 on: November 11, 2008, 09:04:10 PM »

This thread deserves a sticky. yesnod
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runningman
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« Reply #72 on: January 29, 2009, 06:26:30 PM »

I have enough extra parts (3pos rotary switch, resistors) to build a test box as described by lilwendal.  If anyone on here is going to do this and would like these parts let me know.  No charge....just pm me your name and shipping info. 
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gasoline_24
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« Reply #73 on: January 29, 2009, 08:26:17 PM »

Is lilwnedal still around?  Did he ever get moved?
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runningman
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« Reply #74 on: January 30, 2009, 04:20:26 AM »

He is still here somewhere, he answered some gauge questions that I had last week.
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