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Author Topic: Cluster Restoration.  (Read 132942 times)
Chatt69chgr
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« Reply #75 on: January 31, 2009, 09:59:27 AM »

Hey lilwendal-----------I called Mike Ross with BEA about availability of the dash knob kit for a 69 charger.  It's supposed to be kit # 143CH-PLKIT.  He said they are having a problem nailing down which dimmer wheel is correct.  He said it appears that some chargers had a dimmer wheel (the chromed wheel you rotate to dim the interior lights) that had gear teeth all the way around and some had gear teeth that only go half way around.  Also said that the metal enclosure is different for each of these.  With your wealth of experience, could you enlighten us as to what was correct on these.  I assume that 68 and 69 would have been the same.  I realize the you can send these items off to be rechromed but sometimes they are too far gone and you need to buy new ones.  If we can help Mike out, he can get this kit nailed down and make it available to those of us that need new items for the dimmer wheel, rocker switches, and the pushbutton switch for the washer.  Thanks.

I went out to the garage today and looked at two of these dimmer assemblys and both had the gear teeth all the way around on the little chromed dimmer knob.  The ones I have came out of junkyard 68/69 B-bodies.  I hope to rebuild them as spares for my projects.
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68r/t
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« Reply #76 on: February 01, 2009, 05:55:51 PM »

My 68 has the teeth only going half way around.
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Chatt69chgr
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« Reply #77 on: February 02, 2009, 05:22:50 PM »

Maybe 68's use the 1/2 gear and 69's use the full gear.  I doubt it though.  I bet it was dependent on who supplied the dimmer.  They probably sourced them from two different places.  And it would be random as to which you ended up with. 

I talked to Mike Ross today.  He said a couple more months on the dash knob kit for the Charger.  I think it's something to do with the headlight rocker.
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runningman
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« Reply #78 on: February 02, 2009, 06:51:33 PM »

I have enough extra parts (3pos rotary switch, resistors) to build a test box as described by lilwendal.  If anyone on here is going to do this and would like these parts let me know.  No charge....just pm me your name and shipping info. 

I still have these if anyone is interested...
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runningman
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« Reply #79 on: February 03, 2009, 04:15:21 AM »

Parts are spoken for........
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lilwendal
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« Reply #80 on: February 06, 2009, 02:32:43 PM »

Is lilwnedal still around?  Did he ever get moved?

Still around...Just busy as hell.  Have 11 clusters B body clusters here for clients.
Desided not to transfer. Took an early retirement package they offered and they are keeping me on till end of 09.
After that....Going to take a stab at doing cars full time.  We'll see popcrn
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lilwendal
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« Reply #81 on: February 06, 2009, 03:16:15 PM »

Maybe 68's use the 1/2 gear and 69's use the full gear.  I doubt it though.  I bet it was dependent on who supplied the dimmer.  They probably sourced them from two different places.  And it would be random as to which you ended up with. 

I talked to Mike Ross today.  He said a couple more months on the dash knob kit for the Charger.  I think it's something to do with the headlight rocker.
I taked with Mike earlier in the week and brought him up to speed on the switches.
Two different style dimmers using different wheels.  They are not interchangable.
Earlier dimmers are the enclosed style using a pie shaped teeth arrangement while the later open dimmers use a wheel with full teeth pattern.  See pic below.
All 68s and 69's will have the enclosed.  Some very late 69s could have seen the open.  These dimmers are not very reliable so the chances that an original enclosed style dimmer was swapped for the replacement open style.
The switch rocker kits currently offered by PG on Ebay include the wheel for the enclosed/early style dimmer.
The bigger issue with those kits currently avaiable is the flasher for 68/69.  The PG Classic kits come with a washer push button. An early dimmer wheel and 3 pin mount rockers.  Problem is the flasher is a spade mount.  You end up with a switch set that has one extra rocker but no correct rocker for the flasher.  Unfortunate.
I've sent Mike a correct flasher rocker and switch so he can get everything 100% before he offers them.
Just to add...These new switch rockers coming out are chromed like factory with the triple plate true chrome.  Not vacuumized. The look and feel very nice and once these issues with application are resolved will be another excellent reproduction part available to us.
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resq302
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Whats black and white and red all over.......


« Reply #82 on: February 06, 2009, 06:56:48 PM »

Does Mike ever do anything that is not NICE or CORRECT?  Mike is da man! 2thumbs yesnod
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Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto
quapman
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« Reply #83 on: February 06, 2009, 07:01:27 PM »

lilwendal, what do you use for a voltage regulator? Factory or new solid state? Any pics and/or schematics?

Thanks


Steve
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Chatt69chgr
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« Reply #84 on: February 06, 2009, 08:33:10 PM »

Hey lilwendal---------thanks for calling Mike and getting him up to speed on the correct dash knobs, rockers, wheels.  Lots of us need these items.  I've been waiting for a while for these to be made available.  I'll give Mike a call in a couple of months and order my set. 
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69satelite
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« Reply #85 on: March 26, 2009, 01:29:03 PM »

can a sweep cluster out of a 69 plymouth be changed out to a rally cluster I was told that the two use different dashes
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BLUE68RT4ME
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'68 Dodge Charger R/T 440 Magnum


« Reply #86 on: March 26, 2009, 02:01:05 PM »

Lilwendal, where are you located and/or are you going to be at any Mopar shows this year?  I need to buy you a beer!   cheers  THANK YOU SO MUCH for sharing all of this!   2thumbs

Mark
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Mark Schultz
"BLUE68RT4ME"

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« Reply #87 on: March 29, 2009, 09:12:25 AM »

Lilwendal, where are you located and/or are you going to be at any Mopar shows this year?  I need to buy you a beer!   cheers  THANK YOU SO MUCH for sharing all of this!   2thumbs

Mark
He be in Florida.
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darkfiire5000
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« Reply #88 on: March 29, 2009, 10:05:54 AM »

Do you have any clusters for a 1968 dodge charger and if so how much do you want for one?HuhHuh
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lilwendal
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« Reply #89 on: March 30, 2009, 08:36:04 AM »

lilwendal, what do you use for a voltage regulator? Factory or new solid state? Any pics and/or schematics?

Thanks


Steve

Unless the customer requests the newer style voltage regulator I just verify the output of the original points VR sent.  I do recommend the newer VRs.   For 40.00 takes the worry out of tho old style points sticking and possibly harming the gauges.
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lilwendal
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« Reply #90 on: March 30, 2009, 08:37:40 AM »

can a sweep cluster out of a 69 plymouth be changed out to a rally cluster I was told that the two use different dashes
Dash frames are different and not sure if you can modifiy it for the rallye cluster.  Looking at them I would think not.
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lilwendal
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« Reply #91 on: March 30, 2009, 08:40:14 AM »

Do you have any clusters for a 1968 dodge charger and if so how much do you want for one?HuhHuh


PM me with your needs.  Do you have a cluster you need restored??? Are you looking for a decent driver cluster or a fully restored unit?Huh I should be able to help.
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b5blue
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« Reply #92 on: March 30, 2009, 08:44:38 AM »

Hey I got your email some time ago...been meaning to reply...Thanks! Ive been bogged down under my hood and working on suspension. I'll call you as soon as I'm done stomping out gremlins!  2thumbs Neal AKA daddog123
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Corellian Corvette
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« Reply #93 on: March 30, 2009, 03:58:54 PM »

lilwendal I just sent you a PM as well. Thanks!  cheers
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Corellian Corvette
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« Reply #94 on: April 01, 2009, 12:15:00 PM »

Hey Mike - if you read this your inbox is full and I can't reply! Smiley
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lilwendal
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« Reply #95 on: April 02, 2009, 05:25:07 AM »

Hey Mike - if you read this your inbox is full and I can't reply! Smiley


Purging now...Thanks
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RAC95054
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The Charger is gone, but the GTX lives on


« Reply #96 on: April 03, 2009, 03:51:17 PM »

Still around...Just busy as hell.  Have 11 clusters B body clusters here for clients.
Desided not to transfer. Took an early retirement package they offered and they are keeping me on till end of 09.
After that....Going to take a stab at doing cars full time.  We'll see popcrn

I'm jealous, Mike!  I wish my company would buy me out, and I could work on cars all the time. 

And for those who are reading all this and haven't had Mike redo your gauges (yet), he does great work, and is a pleasure to deal with.  He's done two clusters for me!  -Russ
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Play: Work that you enjoy doing for nothing.   -Evan Esar
1charger69
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« Reply #97 on: July 23, 2009, 11:51:42 AM »


I'm just about finished with this just some notes on reassembly that can cause problems. If you had the can off the back off the tach be sure to use your ohmmeter to verify you do not have continuity between either stud and the case.More importantly do the same with the amp gauge.  Very important!!!!!!! It doesn't really have anything to center the terminals well and I think we all know what happens if either terminal touches the case.  Once the gauge is installed I like to clip my meter on...One lead on the case one to a amp stud and wiggle the gauge to be sure its not close to touching. Switch studs and repeat.



well i had the can off back of the tach.....good thing too--- i had to resolder the pole wires to their respective points.....i am getting continuity between the can and the LONG pole...pulled the can back off...i am getting continuity between the LONG pole and the brass mounting studs...the short pole DOSENT have continuity.   am i doing something wrong here???  everything seems to be where it needs to be.

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nascarxx29
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« Reply #98 on: July 23, 2009, 11:57:06 AM »

Good suggestion .I would use a thin piece plastic tubing/rubber hose trimmed with a xacto knife around the amp gauge studs after gauge was in frame from the backside.If it did later wiggle down later.It wouldnt have the metal dash frame to melt on .And blow the fuseible link
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1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701
1charger69
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« Reply #99 on: July 23, 2009, 12:18:18 PM »


I'm just about finished with this just some notes on reassembly that can cause problems. If you had the can off the back off the tach be sure to use your ohmmeter to verify you do not have continuity between either stud and the case.More importantly do the same with the amp gauge.  Very important!!!!!!! It doesn't really have anything to center the terminals well and I think we all know what happens if either terminal touches the case.  Once the gauge is installed I like to clip my meter on...One lead on the case one to a amp stud and wiggle the gauge to be sure its not close to touching. Switch studs and repeat.



well i had the can off back of the tach.....good thing too--- i had to resolder the pole wires to their respective points.....i am getting continuity between the can and the LONG pole...pulled the can back off...i am getting continuity between the LONG pole and the brass mounting studs...the short pole DOSENT have continuity.   am i doing something wrong here???  everything seems to be where it needs to be.




as a side note:  the continuity i am getting from the long pole to the brass studs is just a quick beep on the meter....it reads around .5 ohms...its making me crazy!!!! brickwall
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