Good way to pep up my 440? You decide!

[rikubot]

Hi guys, coming to you for some advice on some internal performance upgrades.

As of right now, my motor is an E440 block built up with lo performance parts (to save money when I was in highschool). Low compression, but it has the correct 906 heads and intake manifold. Only "upgrade" is the edelbrock performer 600 on top. What I was advised to do by a buddy was to pull the motor and put in a more aggressive cam and swap the Pistons to high compression pistons. Also probably a 750carb. I believe it has a .03 bore on the block right now. What do you guys think? I'm not looking to build a race car, I just want to soop up my cruiser a little bit. I'm not worried about the drop in gas mileage. Other notes, I recently upgraded to HP manifolds and 2.5" exhaust. Thanks guys

-Mike

[69wannabe]

Check out mopar muscle article 440 resto to rad. It give's you a good look at how adding performance parts help you get that 440 moving alot better. From my own personal experience the speed pro 2355 pistons work good for a mild performance build and will give you around 9.5 to 1 with the 906 heads. The comp XE268 cam will give you some decent sound and good performance. I have always liked the XE274 but you may need a stall converter with the 274 cam. Lunati also has some good grinds that will give you the same results. Nothing over a 510 lift with the 906 heads because the retainer will bottom out on the valve guide unless you have the guides machined down. A good upgrade would be a high rise dual plane intake or if you can find one the CH4B is an awesome intake to use. I was a HP manifold fan for a few mins until I found a dyno test between headers and manifolds and it was ridiculous how much more power and torque the headers made so headers went on pretty quickly. Top it off with a good 750 holley carb and you will have a pretty stout 440 in there. If you want to really wake it up some aluminum heads will make it move for sure!!!!

[rikubot]

Thanks for all the info. I have a couple questions. How tough was it to get your air cleaner under you good with a high rise intake? Also, what do you think of the Mopar purple shaft cams? I was lookin at getting the .509 since it's still hydraulic lifters. Hmmm...I've heard that the HP manifolds had pretty good flow and torque ratings, but dyno numbers can't be argued with. Saddest part, I just paid $350 for my pair 

[c00nhunterjoe]

If you swap pistons then i would consider a purple cam. I personally love the grinds, others hate them. They serve a good purpose if the motor is built for them.

[BSB67]

I was a HP manifold fan for a few mins until I found a dyno test between headers and manifolds and it was ridiculous how much more power and torque the headers made so headers went on pretty quickly.

To each his own.  And you can't always believe what you read.

Personally, I would not put on headers unless the car is fast enough to need a roll bar.   

[rikubot]

If you swap pistons then i would consider a purple cam. I personally love the grinds, others hate them. They serve a good purpose if the motor is built for them.

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by "love the grinds"?

[rikubot]

I was a HP manifold fan for a few mins until I found a dyno test between headers and manifolds and it was ridiculous how much more power and torque the headers made so headers went on pretty quickly.

To each his own.  And you can't always believe what you read.

Personally, I would not put on headers unless the car is fast enough to need a roll bar.   

Yeah I keep hearing both sides of the story. I think what swayed me to the HP manifolds was the fact it was more close to a stock looking bay. Looking at your signature, I'm quite impressed. I also have 3.23 gears and would be very happy with that Quarter mile. What is going on in your engine bay?

[BSB67]

........What is going on in your engine bay?

http://508charger.yolasite.com/

[brad mcintyre]

you get all weight down that track pretty quick 

[rikubot]

........What is going on in your engine bay?

http://508charger.yolasite.com/

Good lord, you've created a monster!

[68CoronetRT]

........What is going on in your engine bay?

http://508charger.yolasite.com/

Do you recall your 1/8th mile time and speed?

[rikubot]

Update: I order a purple cam, .509 from Summit. $240 and it ships on the 17th 

[BSB67]

........What is going on in your engine bay?

http://508charger.yolasite.com/

Do you recall your 1/8th mile time and speed?

7.608 sec. @ 96.1 mph

[69wannabe]

Update: I order a purple cam, .509 from Summit. $240 and it ships on the 17th  

You are gonna need a good stall converter with that cam, At least a 3200 to 3500 stall converter. You are gonna need some good compression to go with that cam too!!! It will work best with around 10 to 1 compression I would think. I'm not sure what all you are gonna need to make that cam work and run good but a good set of aluminium heads will help it alot. Those 906 stocker's will hold you back quite a bit with the stock valve sizes. These guys on here will guide you in the right direction to get the engine matched up with the cam you ordered. I like the old mopar cams too and they are power builder's but most of the engine's I have used them in were used for the drag strip more than the street. For the street I like the 280/474 and the 284/484 cams for the street but both of those still need a healthy stall converter.

If you are running power brakes you will need to purchase a vacuum can or your power brakes will not work as they used to, Going from a stock smooth cam to a 292/509 is going to open up a can of worm's that you may not be ready to deal with but if all the component's are matched up properly it will work.

Maybe challenger340 and firefighter Ron will chime in and confirm some of what I am thinking here. I maybe all wrong here but if you throw that cam in your engine without the other component's to make that combination work it will be no fun at all.......

BSB is full of knowledge as well and his combination kick's some serious A$$!!! It is a stroked 440 and has the eddy head's which makes a pretty good difference from a stock stroked 440. The eddy heads are a great upgrade on a stock or stroked big block either way!!

[rikubot]

Hmmm.... Very good info. I was advised by a buddy to get this particular cam, and a higher compression piston kit. I was expecting to spend around 2k not including a bigger carb for MOST of the stuff for the build. What would you suggest I approach with this build, and is it going to be fairly streetable when finished? I know very little about building a performance motor as you can tell. I'd like to keep my heads if possible for money reasons and I heard they are more streetable than aluminum heads, but if aluminum heads have to happen, I could definitely try to make that work, it will just take me longer. Also, it's definitely not too late to have them send a different cam I'm sure!

Note: I do have power brakes

[rikubot]

I found this article online and was thinking about using it as a guide. $1000 heads is prob the worst of it...

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-you-can-build-a-stout-537hp-street-440/

I'd be more than happy with 100 HP less

[c00nhunterjoe]

Similar but slightly more agressive racer brown cam in my 383. Ran for 16 yrs before i broke it. Drove everywhere. Never disappointed, always giggled as i ran through the gears.

https://youtu.be/9gpncCxfZ44
https://youtu.be/di8VIN6i6ok
https://youtu.be/x86OGyvN-6A

[rikubot]

Do you mean a similar cam to the build in the link or the one I ordered?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Do you mean a similar cam to the build in the link or the one I ordered?

Similar to the 509

[69wannabe]

Some say the 509 is a mild cam, 248 duration @ 50 degree's with a 108 centerline is big in my book.  The worst thing you can do to a car you like to drive and enjoy is to over cam the engine. In my early years of working on engines I have done this a few times but being younger and not caring about driveability I didn't care. Now older I like for my engine to run good and sound good too so there is a happy medium you have to settle with in reality. If you read the article where it come's to the cam selection and spec's it says this isn't the best cam for a street friendly engine and it's a 241 duration @ 50 degree's. I currently am running the comp XE284 cam in my 493 ci which is 240 duration @ 50 degrees and it has good power and sound and it's very driveable and works with my power brakes. The bigger the cubic inches the bigger the cam you can run without it affecting driveability and vacuum, if I were still running a stock stroke 440 I would be running the XE274 by comp since in a stock stroke 440 this cam sounds pretty nice to me and has good street manners.

Not saying it won't run and drive with 509 cam but I know what works and doesn't work for me. If I were building a 440 engine to take to the drag strip every weekend to play with I would have the 509 cam in there but if I were building a car to drive and enjoy I would go with something more modern and streetable.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Some say the 509 is a mild cam, 248 duration @ 50 degree's with a 108 centerline is big in my book.  The worst thing you can do to a car you like to drive and enjoy is to over cam the engine. In my early years of working on engines I have done this a few times but being younger and not caring about driveability I didn't care. Now older I like for my engine to run good and sound good too so there is a happy medium you have to settle with in reality. If you read the article where it come's to the cam selection and spec's it says this isn't the best cam for a street friendly engine and it's a 241 duration @ 50 degree's. I currently am running the comp XE284 cam in my 493 ci which is 240 duration @ 50 degrees and it has good power and sound and it's very driveable and works with my power brakes. The bigger the cubic inches the bigger the cam you can run without it affecting driveability and vacuum, if I were still running a stock stroke 440 I would be running the XE274 by comp since in a stock stroke 440 this cam sounds pretty nice to me and has good street manners.

Not saying it won't run and drive with 509 cam but I know what works and doesn't work for me. If I were building a 440 engine to take to the drag strip every weekend to play with I would have the 509 cam in there but if I were building a car to drive and enjoy I would go with something more modern and streetable.

Depends on compression.... 8:1 and yep, overcammed and wont make power til 4k+..... but small? Not in my book..... my current cam is over .750 lift and my .050 will be greater then most guys advertised and i will be on the street.... beauty is in the eyes of the beholder my friend. Lol

[Brass]

Do you know what cam is in there now?  Is it an auto or manual?  Did you say your budget is $2K?

[garner7555]

Some say the 509 is a mild cam, 248 duration @ 50 degree's with a 108 centerline is big in my book.  The worst thing you can do to a car you like to drive and enjoy is to over cam the engine. In my early years of working on engines I have done this a few times but being younger and not caring about driveability I didn't care. Now older I like for my engine to run good and sound good too so there is a happy medium you have to settle with in reality. If you read the article where it come's to the cam selection and spec's it says this isn't the best cam for a street friendly engine and it's a 241 duration @ 50 degree's. I currently am running the comp XE284 cam in my 493 ci which is 240 duration @ 50 degrees and it has good power and sound and it's very driveable and works with my power brakes. The bigger the cubic inches the bigger the cam you can run without it affecting driveability and vacuum, if I were still running a stock stroke 440 I would be running the XE274 by comp since in a stock stroke 440 this cam sounds pretty nice to me and has good street manners.

Not saying it won't run and drive with 509 cam but I know what works and doesn't work for me. If I were building a 440 engine to take to the drag strip every weekend to play with I would have the 509 cam in there but if I were building a car to drive and enjoy I would go with something more modern and streetable.

Depends on compression.... 8:1 and yep, overcammed and wont make power til 4k+..... but small? Not in my book..... my current cam is over .750 lift and my .050 will be greater then most guys advertised and i will be on the street.... beauty is in the eyes of the beholder my friend. Lol

Wow!   The replacement for your 383 is going to be a BEAST then with that big cam!       Can't wait to hear the details of the build.

[69wannabe]

Some say the 509 is a mild cam, 248 duration @ 50 degree's with a 108 centerline is big in my book.  The worst thing you can do to a car you like to drive and enjoy is to over cam the engine. In my early years of working on engines I have done this a few times but being younger and not caring about driveability I didn't care. Now older I like for my engine to run good and sound good too so there is a happy medium you have to settle with in reality. If you read the article where it come's to the cam selection and spec's it says this isn't the best cam for a street friendly engine and it's a 241 duration @ 50 degree's. I currently am running the comp XE284 cam in my 493 ci which is 240 duration @ 50 degrees and it has good power and sound and it's very driveable and works with my power brakes. The bigger the cubic inches the bigger the cam you can run without it affecting driveability and vacuum, if I were still running a stock stroke 440 I would be running the XE274 by comp since in a stock stroke 440 this cam sounds pretty nice to me and has good street manners.

Not saying it won't run and drive with 509 cam but I know what works and doesn't work for me. If I were building a 440 engine to take to the drag strip every weekend to play with I would have the 509 cam in there but if I were building a car to drive and enjoy I would go with something more modern and streetable.

Depends on compression.... 8:1 and yep, overcammed and wont make power til 4k+..... but small? Not in my book..... my current cam is over .750 lift and my .050 will be greater then most guys advertised and i will be on the street.... beauty is in the eyes of the beholder my friend. Lol

That's alot of strain on your valvetrain but better you than me. For my kind of driving I will never need that kind of cam and neither will most people on here that just want it to have some good sound and cruise around. I hope it works good for you, i'll just keep my tiny comp cam I guess......

[rikubot]

I'm not sure what's in it now as I can't find the paperwork from the rebuild. I'm fairly certain it's been built stock with low compression. It's an auto tranny. I was looking to keep the total rebuild under 2k, it only has maybe 2-3k miles on the last rebuild so I wasn't expecting to have to do any machine work to it.

[rikubot]

My goal for this build is definitely higher comp Pistons and a bigger carb. Right now it's got an edelbrock 600. What kind of power can I get out of it with higher comp Pistons, a suitable cam, bigger carb, and probably a new intake manifold? Will the stock heads hold it back all that much? If I got 400-450 HP for around 2k starting with what I've got, I'd be ecstatic. Is this reasonable? Of course more would be okay too haha

[heyoldguy]

Here is just some food for though. Notice that the biggest increase in horsepower came from the cylinder head swap.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-testing-a-stock-1972-440.249866/

Now we did put this engine in a 1972 Satellite with 2.46:1 gears and it was a bit of a dog off the line, but it did drive around on the street very smoothly.

Oh, I do not recommend the 509 cam for this build. It just happened to be laying around so we used it.

[BSB67]

It is hard to say regarding both your budget goal and final performance. Simple budget changes to an already budget rebuild usually falls short.

If you want to put in new piston, and do it right, you won't get there on your budget.  

I'll make a prediction, the 906 heads are junk. It is hard to make any decent power with old heads unless you put about $1500 into them.

I see this so often.  A poorly rebuilt motor is about the same as starting from scratch.  How do l know this about your motor....... The low compression pistons..........100% of the time.  

Sorry for delivering this news.

[BSB67]

Here is just some food for though. Notice that the biggest increase in horsepower came from the cylinder head swap.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-testing-a-stock-1972-440.249866/

Now we did put this engine in a 1972 Satellite with 2.46:1 gears and it was a bit of a dog off the line, but it did drive around on the street very smoothly.

Oh, I do not recommend the 509 cam for this build. It just happened to be laying around so we used it.

Agreed.  Probably best bang for the buck is a small combustion chamber (75cc or less) alum. Head.

[Brass]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,124850.0.html

[rikubot]

It is hard to say regarding both your budget goal and final performance. Simple budget changes to an already budget rebuild usually falls short.

If you want to put in new piston, and do it right, you won't get there on your budget.  

I'll make a prediction, the 906 heads are junk. It is hard to make any decent power with old heads unless you put about $1500 into them.

I see this so often.  A poorly rebuilt motor is about the same as starting from scratch.  How do l know this about your motor....... The low compression pistons..........100% of the time.  

Sorry for delivering this news.

No need to apologize. I think we paid around 2400 to haul and do all the work back in 2002.

[rikubot]

Here is just some food for though. Notice that the biggest increase in horsepower came from the cylinder head swap.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-testing-a-stock-1972-440.249866/

Now we did put this engine in a 1972 Satellite with 2.46:1 gears and it was a bit of a dog off the line, but it did drive around on the street very smoothly.

Oh, I do not recommend the 509 cam for this build. It just happened to be laying around so we used it.

Agreed.  Probably best bang for the buck is a small combustion chamber (75cc or less) alum. Head.

What would I need to accompany this? I'm assuming bigger carb and maybe an intake, correct?

[rikubot]

Just got done going through cylinder heads on Jegs. Felt like a lost little puppy 

[Brass]

Just got done going through cylinder heads on Jegs. Felt like a lost little puppy  

I was pointing out that Jegs currently has a sale on Edelbrock E-street heads.  I don't know how long it will run though.  At the same time, Edelbrock is offering a rebate on heads purchased before September 30.  Together, that could mean decent savings.  Especially since a budget of $2,000 will limit what you are able to do.  For aluminum heads, the Edelbrock E-street 5090 would be worth looking at. Another option to consider would be the Stealth aluminum heads from 440Source.

Also, if you feel lost, it might be good to do more research and be as informed as possible before making any big decisions on what parts to spend on.  There is a lot of good information on this site.   So do some searches and keep asking questions.  You may want to look through the "Proven Combos" section to get sense of what others have done and what is possible.

[rikubot]

Great advice Brass. I'm clearly in over my head and now I doubt my buddy's advice on builds. He recommended the .509 in the first place. It's pretty obvious now that it's not right for my "street performer-esque" build. 2k isn't a concrete budget, mostly because I plan on spacing it out over time. I was mainly looking for a cam because it fit in my "$300 or less" monthly part budget , and was just gonna let it sit on my shelf for a while. I'd much rather do it right, spend more, and wait a lil longer.

[rikubot]

I embarrass myself on this site daily. I can't find the "Proven Combos" section...

[cdr]

I embarrass myself on this site daily. I can't find the "Proven Combos" section...

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/board,30.0.html

[Brass]

I embarrass myself on this site daily. I can't find the "Proven Combos" section...

Think nothing of it!  It's a child board so a little hard to find.  : )

[Stegs]

i was told with my lower compression build (8.7:1) is to go with eddy e street 75CC heads

it will bump your compression about 1 full point (i was told) so thats a nice boost.

a better intake, firecore ignition and NGK plugs also help.

From there you can go with a different cam/lifters....headers etc.


My plan is to order some estreet heads, bump my compression....then move on to other things down the road

[c00nhunterjoe]

i was told with my lower compression build (8.7:1) is to go with eddy e street 75CC heads

it will bump your compression about 1 full point (i was told) so thats a nice boost.

a better intake, firecore ignition and NGK plugs also help.

From there you can go with a different cam/lifters....headers etc.


My plan is to order some estreet heads, bump my compression....then move on to other things down the road

In my opinion, and its just that, the e street heads on this bottom end is nothing more then a "bandaid". Dont go into the purchase thinking these heads are the fix for crap pistons. Will they improve it, yes, but they wont fix it.

[69wannabe]

i was told with my lower compression build (8.7:1) is to go with eddy e street 75CC heads

it will bump your compression about 1 full point (i was told) so thats a nice boost.

a better intake, firecore ignition and NGK plugs also help.

From there you can go with a different cam/lifters....headers etc.


My plan is to order some estreet heads, bump my compression....then move on to other things down the road

In my opinion, and its just that, the e street heads on this bottom end is nothing more then a "bandaid". Dont go into the purchase thinking these heads are the fix for crap pistons. Will they improve it, yes, but they wont fix it.

I agree with joe on this point, Put some good piston's in there and trash those low compression slugs and then a good set of heads will really compliment the engine and you don't have to go with the smallest combustion chamber you can find then......

[rikubot]

i was told with my lower compression build (8.7:1) is to go with eddy e street 75CC heads

it will bump your compression about 1 full point (i was told) so thats a nice boost.

a better intake, firecore ignition and NGK plugs also help.

From there you can go with a different cam/lifters....headers etc.


My plan is to order some estreet heads, bump my compression....then move on to other things down the road

In my opinion, and its just that, the e street heads on this bottom end is nothing more then a "bandaid". Dont go into the purchase thinking these heads are the fix for crap pistons. Will they improve it, yes, but they wont fix it.

I see. I would rather work from the inside out anyway. What steps would I have to take to get higher compression Pistons to work?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Depends on what you want vs what you need. They go hand in hand. You basicly have a bone stock motor less a few ponies. So what do you want EXACTLY? You said you dont want race car power but that is pretty vague too. Even saying 450 hp is vague. You can make 450 hp with a 500" stroker that idles bone stock, or you can build a 383 that idles like a super stocker and makes 450 hp. See my dilemma with your question? There are a hundred ways to answer it. We need a solid base to start with as to what you want out of the total car package.

[rikubot]

Thank you for clarifying. There is so much to learn and the more I learn the more I find out the less I know. I think what I want most of all out of the car is drivability. I don't go around racing people or looking for trouble, but I do like setting the rider's head back a bit when I get on the gas. I don't do a lot of cold weather driving either. What do you think?

[XH29N0G]

What about changing the gear ratio?  3.23 is a nice set, but I wonder if 3.55 would make a difference that would be noticeable in driving without sending the highway cruising RPM too high.   This could be done in combination with other changes. 

[c00nhunterjoe]

I would seriously consider looking at russ's build. (Bsb67) his looks bone stock, has a little rumble but still idles at 950 (i think) and will runn 11s. Its a 500" stroker that was built to cruise.

[rikubot]

What about changing the gear ratio?  3.23 is a nice set, but I wonder if 3.55 would make a difference that would be noticeable in driving without sending the highway cruising RPM too high.   This could be done in combination with other changes. 

I was considering that as well. I wish I had a buddy with those gears and a similar motor so I could feel the difference, but the only one I know has a beefed up 440 and it's not quite road ready.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Gear swap will only change the launch through the 60'. Your car will physically be no faster through the 1/4.  Mph will be the same.

[rikubot]

I would seriously consider looking at russ's build. (Bsb67) his looks bone stock, has a little rumble but still idles at 950 (i think) and will runn 11s. Its a 500" stroker that was built to cruise.

I do like that idea. I think I would rather build a whole new motor if I was going to go that rout. I've missed out on a few cheap, low miles motor home 440s because I waiting around too long. What do you think of that idea? I'm intrigued with the striker idea, even though it doesn't sound cheap. 

[c00nhunterjoe]

A 440 block is a 440 block. Doesnt matter the year. When starting from scratch, the cost of 440 parts vs 572 parts are neglible.

[rikubot]

I see. I very much appreciate your expertise. I think the only thing I'm sure of right now is that I need to do a LOT more research before I start buying parts. If I were to buy a 750 cfm carb, is this something that would be useful in most build routes? Currently have a 600 and everyone tells me is choking my Big Block...

[c00nhunterjoe]

To say "starve" is not quite the right term. The engine will use what the carb will flow at a given engine rpm. So basicly, If you never take your stock low compression 440 above 5k, your 600 is not really limiting you by much. Would a 750 improve it, probably, but doubtful you would notice a seat-o-pants meter improvement. Conversely, a 750 would be ok on a very mild 440, but not a respectable one and definatly not on a stroker. Plan your entire package on paper before you purchase any parts.

[Dino]

My 440 ran sweet with a 600. It couldn't keep up with the demands like a 750 or my TQ but it rarely had to do so. It was more responsive and crisp than a larger carb which makes it fun around town. Nothing wrong with a well tuned 750, which you will likely end up with it after an engine rebuild, but there's really no need for one yet. Get the engine done first and match the carb to the build, not the other way round

You could do a few cheaper mods now but it won't make much of a difference. If you want to keep driving the Charger then I say layout your build plan, find a cheap 440 block, and start buying parts.

Don't overbuild it if you just want a reliable driver with a lot of pep because that doesn't take you much beyond stock really. A well tuned stock build is a super sweet cruiser with one hell of an attitude if you piss it off! 

[rikubot]

Found a 440 on Craig's, mid 70s motor home engine, less than 50k miles. Gonna go check it out on Thursday or Friday. He's asking 500 for the motor, what do you guys think?

[c00nhunterjoe]

500 for the block is below the market rate right now. Thats all you will end up using.

[rikubot]

That's what I figured. What is the usual price for a block these days?

[rikubot]

Also, I heard once it's bad for them to try to start them after they've been sitting. I'm not sure how long this ones been sitting yet.

[rikubot]

My 440 ran sweet with a 600. It couldn't keep up with the demands like a 750 or my TQ but it rarely had to do so. It was more responsive and crisp than a larger carb which makes it fun around town. Nothing wrong with a well tuned 750, which you will likely end up with it after an engine rebuild, but there's really no need for one yet. Get the engine done first and match the carb to the build, not the other way round

You could do a few cheaper mods now but it won't make much of a difference. If you want to keep driving the Charger then I say layout your build plan, find a cheap 440 block, and start buying parts.

Don't overbuild it if you just want a reliable driver with a lot of pep because that doesn't take you much beyond stock really. A well tuned stock build is a super sweet cruiser with one hell of an attitude if you piss it off! 

That's my main goal! Coonhunter was recommending a 500 stroker build so I'm looking into that now. Wide open for ideas, though. My next step is to try to get this motor, tear it down, and do the Magnaflux, then go from there.

[Brass]

Have you priced stroker kits?

http://www.manciniracing.com/search-results.html?catalog=chucker54&query=RB+stroker+kit&Submit=Search

A stroker motor will get you to your goal but so will a well-built 440:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,106687.0.html

Based on what you describe, a combo like BSB67's is probably more than what you're looking for.  Indeed, after accounting for the 500" kit, accessories, machining, assembly, a Dwayne Porter custom solid cam, worked aluminum heads, intake, carb, port matching, etc. etc. – you'll be over your budget without having touched anything downstream.

If you want to stay under $2,000.00, the best bang for your buck is probably aluminum heads, a CH4B, and a 750 double pumper.  

Another idea is to go slow and build up a separate motor over time while you drive what you have.  

A stout short-block could get you started:

http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/bb-short-block-description

[rikubot]

Yeah I looked around at them for a little while and once I picked my jaw up off the floor, I realized that 2k for a decent build was kind of a ridiculous idea. I decided to just get another block, plan out a build, and start buying parts. Im going to look at a motor home 440 on Friday. Still lookin for ideas though!

[Challenger340]

Yeah I looked around at them for a little while and once I picked my jaw up off the floor, I realized that 2k for a decent build was kind of a ridiculous idea. I decided to just get another block, plan out a build, and start buying parts. Im going to look at a motor home 440 on Friday. Still lookin for ideas though!

$2K don't go very far these days.
Even the cheaper stroker kits are NOT "ready to run" ootb, and require at the very least checking by your machinist / fixing as req'd if you want it right.

[rikubot]

Have you priced stroker kits?

http://www.manciniracing.com/search-results.html?catalog=chucker54&query=RB+stroker+kit&Submit=Search

A stroker motor will get you to your goal but so will a well-built 440:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,106687.0.html

Based on what you describe, a combo like BSB67's is probably more than what you're looking for.  Indeed, after accounting for the 500" kit, accessories, machining, assembly, a Dwayne Porter custom solid cam, worked aluminum heads, intake, carb, port matching, etc. etc. – you'll be over your budget without having touched anything downstream.

If you want to stay under $2,000.00, the best bang for your buck is probably aluminum heads, a CH4B, and a 750 double pumper.  

Another idea is to go slow and build up a separate motor over time while you drive what you have.  

A stout short-block could get you started:

http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/bb-short-block-description

Thanks for the awesome links. I'm gonna do some reading tomorrow

[rikubot]

I'm going to check out and most likely buy that 440 tomorrow. Anything in particular I should keep my eye out for? He said it was okay if we try to get it started first to look for leaks

[rikubot]

I bought the sucker. $500 for the motor and tranny with the RV braking tail shaft.

[Dino]

Nice!

So what's the plan?

[rikubot]

I was thinking about trying to start it up. Then after that, tear her down to the block and get it checked out. If it checks out, start planning out a build and buying the parts. Start with the cheapest ones possible haha

[rikubot]

I'm thinkin of a sorta tame bottom end and  thinking about trick flow heads. What do you think?

[garner7555]

Trick flow heads are awesome, but unless you are looking to make lots of power (I would say over 500hp) then I would think the Sidewinder heads would serve the purpose just about as well for almost half the cost.      I'm not an expert on this, but everyone advised me to use sidewinders over the Trick flows because I was just building a mild street engine  (Firefighter Ron guessed my combo would make 500hp 530tq).      Everyone can be more helpful if you list your goals and your budget with as much detail as possible.   

[rikubot]

Thanks for the input. I've never even heard of those. What does your build consist of? I'll do a write up with my budget and goals during my lunch. I'm runnin a little late today lol. By the way, your Charger looks unbelievably good in you profile pic. Ralley red?

[garner7555]

It is viper red.  Thanks

Here is a post about sidewinder heads.      http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,122165.msg1521554.html#msg1521554

[rikubot]

Thank you for the link.

I found this article online. Looks like they bored it, honed it, zero decked it, forged crank, new pistons, edelbrock heads, intake, and a big carb. What do you guys think of this build? They claim it's "budget friendly" but with mopar that's a very loose term.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-you-can-build-a-stout-537hp-street-440/

[c00nhunterjoe]

Thank you for the link.

I found this article online. Looks like they bored it, honed it, zero decked it, forged crank, new pistons, edelbrock heads, intake, and a big carb. What do you guys think of this build? They claim it's "budget friendly" but with mopar that's a very loose term.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-you-can-build-a-stout-537hp-street-440/

That will not be "street friendly" by most peoples standards. Note they dont even start the dyno to 3600. It will be skipping off the cam to 2000 rpm, require a good amount of rear gear and a loose converter. I also feel that their hp numbers are inflated a tad. Probably make closer to the 500 to 520 with that cam. Depending on your machine shop, 5-8k cost to build depending on what parts you have.

[Challenger340]

Thank you for the link.

I found this article online. Looks like they bored it, honed it, zero decked it, forged crank, new pistons, edelbrock heads, intake, and a big carb. What do you guys think of this build? They claim it's "budget friendly" but with mopar that's a very loose term.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-you-can-build-a-stout-537hp-street-440/

We did a series of fairly Budget oriented 440's back in 2014, it was sort of chance to re-visit and update of what we have always done with 440's, because we see more Strokers nowadays than anything with not much chance to play with "just" a 440.
Nonetheless,  this last time we used the 440 Source Stealth Heads With a Porting / Prep Pkg., 91 Octane Pump Gas and Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cams

You may wish to read through the thread in it's entirety for a few ideas.... it is called "A Lowly 440 Street Engine"

We did 2 440 Engines basically same/same except Cams / one with more Head work

One Engine @ 486 HP and 550 Ft/L trq using an XE274H Cam all done by 5,000 rpm(Auto just leave in "D")
and
The other @ 545 HP and 564 Ft/Lb Trq. using an XE284H Cam for the guys wanting a little higher @ 5500 rpm(Auto or 4 stick)

I posted our findings and the Dyno Sheet results over here
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,106687.0.html

[rikubot]

Great article. I actually had that one book-marked under my favorites. I may try to copy one of those builds as best I can. I'd be plenty happy with either.

Right now my friend and I are trying to get the motor started, just for fun before I tear her down. Starter works, thermoquad works, coil works, fuel pump works and distributor works, but we keep getting a really weak spark. Any ideas? I did get one little pop of combustion while trying, so I know she wants start.

Also, once I get it torn down, how much should I expect to pay for a hot-tanking and sonic testing?