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Author Topic: Fuel sending unit differences (new pics shown 7-11)  (Read 6788 times)
oldcarnut
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« on: May 20, 2009, 09:07:58 AM »

Getting ready today to buy a new tank, sending unit, etc. but I want to know if anyone has had problems with the units that have the plastic floats vs the brass or if the wire that wraps around the tube vs straight to the connector makes a difference.  I'm getting everything from Mitchell Motor but his sending unit has the plastic.  Does it matter or should I hold out somewhere else for the brass type float with straight wire?  For a 70RR  Thanks
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resq302
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Whats black and white and red all over.......


« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2009, 10:04:36 AM »

Wow.  Must have some extra money to burn getting the parts from Mitchell Motors.  Just kidding.
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Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto
oldcarnut
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« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2009, 10:49:01 AM »


Wow.  Must have some extra money to burn getting the parts from Mitchell Motors.  Just kidding.

A little short on extra money but yeah I know where ya coming from  yesnod but the tank was $139, sending unit $59, and filler neck grommet $9 which all was pretty much in line with most others when you figure in the extra shipping costs.  The tank seems to be one of the better ones but I just didn't want any gas gauge calibration issues from using something a little different from oem but if others have used that type with no problems then I'll get it all from the same place.
Tank
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-1970-Gas-Tank-Road-Runner-MoPar-GTX-CR9C-Superbird_W0QQitemZ140268967376QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item20a8ae95d0&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Here's the brass unit from someone that caused me to question the plastic type.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-70-Mopar-Hemi-440-6-B-Body-3-8-Fuel-Sending-Unit_W0QQitemZ350196043179QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item51894f8dab&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

So has anybody used the plastic type and it work ok?  Seems like maybe the plastic floats may be less likely to to get the pinhole leaks like the brass.
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Charger-Bodie
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« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2009, 12:30:03 PM »

Take some time and read this...........:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,57267.0.html


As for the float etc. I don't think it really matters too much. None of the repop sending units read right anyway.

As you will see in the tread I linked you can cure that with a little effort.
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2009, 12:31:50 PM »

I simply got the one similar to the original from Vans Auto Salvage... brass float and metal stripe instead wire, although Mopars are apparently plastic flkoater and wired.

Different that 1hot68, I didn't get any problem with reading... I have AN EXACT reading. JUST LOST the reading twice or three times after a hard cornering, something that I fixed with a kick to the tank LOL. I have to check that, pretty sure the point tab moves a inside the rheostat ( sp? ) assembly.
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
Charger-Bodie
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« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2009, 05:14:41 PM »

I simply got the one similar to the original from Vans Auto Salvage... brass float and metal stripe instead wire, although Mopars are apparently plastic flkoater and wired.

Different that 1hot68, I didn't get any problem with reading... I have AN EXACT reading. JUST LOST the reading twice or three times after a hard cornering, something that I fixed with a kick to the tank LOL. I have to check that, pretty sure the point tab moves a inside the rheostat ( sp? ) assembly.

 3rd generation Chargers may read OK 68-70 repop sending units are not accurate . And FYI I had a unit from Vans in there  at one point and it did not read right either.
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
oldcarnut
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« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2009, 09:15:12 PM »

Thanks all. Sent him my $$$ tonight.  I'll let ya know if it worked right or not.
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2009, 09:16:25 PM »

yeah does look that
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #8 on: May 24, 2009, 09:20:57 AM »

I simply got the one similar to the original from Vans Auto Salvage... brass float and metal stripe instead wire, although Mopars are apparently plastic flkoater and wired.

Different that 1hot68, I didn't get any problem with reading... I have AN EXACT reading. JUST LOST the reading twice or three times after a hard cornering, something that I fixed with a kick to the tank LOL. I have to check that, pretty sure the point tab moves a inside the rheostat ( sp? ) assembly.

 3rd generation Chargers may read OK 68-70 repop sending units are not accurate . And FYI I had a unit from Vans in there  at one point and it did not read right either.
What's a " 3rd  " generation Charger look like?   shruggy
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Charger-Bodie
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« Reply #9 on: May 24, 2009, 10:47:15 AM »

I simply got the one similar to the original from Vans Auto Salvage... brass float and metal stripe instead wire, although Mopars are apparently plastic flkoater and wired.

Different that 1hot68, I didn't get any problem with reading... I have AN EXACT reading. JUST LOST the reading twice or three times after a hard cornering, something that I fixed with a kick to the tank LOL. I have to check that, pretty sure the point tab moves a inside the rheostat ( sp? ) assembly.

 3rd generation Chargers may read OK 68-70 repop sending units are not accurate . And FYI I had a unit from Vans in there  at one point and it did not read right either.
What's a " 3rd  " generation Charger look like?   shruggy


You mean you dont know?Huh  nana   Cheesy  shruggy  slap
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
resq302
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Whats black and white and red all over.......


« Reply #10 on: May 24, 2009, 11:06:21 AM »

I simply got the one similar to the original from Vans Auto Salvage... brass float and metal stripe instead wire, although Mopars are apparently plastic flkoater and wired.

Different that 1hot68, I didn't get any problem with reading... I have AN EXACT reading. JUST LOST the reading twice or three times after a hard cornering, something that I fixed with a kick to the tank LOL. I have to check that, pretty sure the point tab moves a inside the rheostat ( sp? ) assembly.

 3rd generation Chargers may read OK 68-70 repop sending units are not accurate . And FYI I had a unit from Vans in there  at one point and it did not read right either.
What's a " 3rd  " generation Charger look like?   shruggy

Aren't they those funny looking things that are almost an exact copy of the roadrunner? hah
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Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto
1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #11 on: May 24, 2009, 06:05:21 PM »

I simply got the one similar to the original from Vans Auto Salvage... brass float and metal stripe instead wire, although Mopars are apparently plastic flkoater and wired.

Different that 1hot68, I didn't get any problem with reading... I have AN EXACT reading. JUST LOST the reading twice or three times after a hard cornering, something that I fixed with a kick to the tank LOL. I have to check that, pretty sure the point tab moves a inside the rheostat ( sp? ) assembly.

 3rd generation Chargers may read OK 68-70 repop sending units are not accurate . And FYI I had a unit from Vans in there  at one point and it did not read right either.
What's a " 3rd  " generation Charger look like?   shruggy


You mean you dont know?Huh  nana   Cheesy  shruggy  slap
Boy O boy it must be nice to be able to change other peoples post and make them look  image_294343   

And you probably sleep like a baby? baby   rotz
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #12 on: May 24, 2009, 06:44:32 PM »

Got my stuff in and thought I post a few pics.  The tank looked good.  Had a small little dent in it but not a big deal.  I took an ohms reading (if I did it right) and got 10.4 on the full and 74.8 on empty.  The old one sort bounced all over the place but after settling down I got 14.8 and 76.2 so I'm hoping that it will read fairly accurate after installing.  I'd like someone to chime in on this filler neck gasket.  See the pics and look at the differences. I don't know if he sent the wrong one or that's how they come now and does it work ok?  I got shorted a sending unit flange and gasket. Should have got one with the tank and one with the sending unit.  Gonna have to write him back about that. The sending unit was made by Spectra and just a reg. steel unit-no SS tube.   Any input on the neck gasket?


* Tanktop.JPG (111.24 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1300 times.)

* Tankbottom1.JPG (110.47 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1306 times.)

* Ohmsfull.JPG (112.26 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1291 times.)

* ohmsempty.JPG (112 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1349 times.)
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #13 on: May 24, 2009, 06:46:25 PM »

The gasket.  Its hard to tell but the new one has the ID almost V shaped instead of straight with the extra lip seal.  Looks like it had someone trim out excess molding in there too.


* Gasket1.JPG (109.29 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1280 times.)

* Gasket2.JPG (110.03 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1261 times.)
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maxwellwedge
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« Reply #14 on: May 24, 2009, 08:39:20 PM »

Does the new gasket have a Chrysler part number on it? It looks ok to me.
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2009, 08:49:54 PM »

The gasket.  Its hard to tell but the new one has the ID almost V shaped instead of straight with the extra lip seal.  Looks like it had someone trim out excess molding in there too.
If you go to # 531 on my post you can see I had the exact same 2 seals you asked about.  I found the newer one without the lip not to be as snug on the filler pipe as the original one I took out so I used my original one again with no leaks.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,34954.20.html
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #16 on: May 24, 2009, 09:38:16 PM »

That's a much better pic than mine so I copied and re-posted to save anyone the search if that's ok.  Unfortunately mine is too deteriorated to try to want to reuse it.  I just cleaned the filler neck and gave the new a trial fit.  Seems to be snug around it but it just the way it's designed doesn't look to give much contact area.  The extra lip on the old one just fits over the raised ridge on the neck  No, there is no mfg. #'s of anykind on it.  Maybe the originals were the same way and only they look straight from being compressed against the pipe all the years.  shruggy


* Gasket3.jpg (125.54 KB, 800x600 - viewed 1273 times.)
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #17 on: June 02, 2009, 10:00:02 PM »

Got it all mounted.  I did recheck the gauge first connected to the car wiring before installing in the tank with a ground hooked up and the gas gauge is 1/2 tank off. Old unit did the same thing.  I know I have a grounding issue in the dash somewhere because it causes the dash lights to act up so I hope that's it and it's on the to do list.  Haven't put gas in it yet for a final check. 

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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #18 on: June 02, 2009, 11:07:59 PM »

I simply got the one similar to the original from Vans Auto Salvage... brass float and metal stripe instead wire, although Mopars are apparently plastic flkoater and wired.

Different that 1hot68, I didn't get any problem with reading... I have AN EXACT reading. JUST LOST the reading twice or three times after a hard cornering, something that I fixed with a kick to the tank LOL. I have to check that, pretty sure the point tab moves a inside the rheostat ( sp? ) assembly.

 3rd generation Chargers may read OK 68-70 repop sending units are not accurate . And FYI I had a unit from Vans in there  at one point and it did not read right either.
What's a " 3rd  " generation Charger look like?   shruggy

Aren't they those funny looking things that are almost an exact copy of the roadrunner? hah

Similar to your ones but with better aerodinamic, more confortably, better acces to the floor shifter, better view around ( smaller blind spot ), and still sporty with 2 doors Cheesy

 rofl rofl
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
Ghoste
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« Reply #19 on: June 03, 2009, 11:25:36 AM »

Sort of like a pregnant Challenger?  Cheesy
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Nacho-RT74
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« Reply #20 on: June 06, 2009, 12:56:30 PM »

Sort of like a pregnant Challenger?  Cheesy

 Nacho --->nutkick<---Ghoste

 icon_smile_big
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
Ghoste
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« Reply #21 on: June 06, 2009, 01:02:13 PM »

 Cheesy
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #22 on: July 11, 2009, 12:07:47 AM »

Thought I’d post some difference findings after getting frustrated with a 2nd new replacement sending unit.  Maybe it will help someone else.  The brand I had was 3/8” Spectra for a 70 RR. 1st one I got ended up defective.  Bought another and decided to look into it more.  I cut the mounting area off my old tank and put both in to see if anything was going on.  Well in this instance it was plenty and showed why things were off from the start and just simply didn’t register the gauge accurately.   The first 2 show the old one mounted in the full and empty positions.  I placed a paint stick on the top and bottom of the tank to show where the tank wall would normally be.  The next 2 show how the new one fit.


* Send Unit Empty.JPG (153.14 KB, 600x450 - viewed 1195 times.)

* Send Unit Full.JPG (161.96 KB, 600x450 - viewed 1119 times.)

* New Unit Full.JPG (129.53 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1189 times.)

* New Unit Empty.JPG (145.12 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1153 times.)
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #23 on: July 11, 2009, 12:10:28 AM »

Notice that the positioning of the new pickup tube end is much higher than the stock unit.  This would leave a lot more gas in the tank when it was supposed to be empty.  You can see that the full position on the new does not reach the stop tab. If the only the float rod had been bent to try and get a better reading, it wouldn’t really be totally empty but just out of reach of the new tube end. I placed a slight bend in the tube to position it the same as the one that came out.  Now the rod will reach the stop tabs and the tube suction end is about the same position but it still wasn’t reading the gauge correctly. 


* After Tube Bend New Full.JPG (133.51 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1166 times.)

* AfterTube Bend New Empty.JPG (131.33 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1108 times.)
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #24 on: July 11, 2009, 12:13:08 AM »

Would only show ¾ full when full up.  Now it was time to bend the rod.  In this pic I show the guts of the sender.  If the float rod is bent near the float, the stop tabs wouldn’t allow the proper amount of resistant movement to make the gauge read right.  So I made my bend at the pivit point so that the travel range beyond the Spectra preset full and after the empty could be adjusted. Basically it just shifted where the reading range was. Put in 5 gals of gas to check my bend and after a  couple adjustments got it to read close to ¼ tank. (19 gal tank).  Put in 5 more gals and the gauge read a little past 5/8.  Here’s where I got messed up.  That should have been 10 gals in a 19 gal tank but I drove maybe 4 miles to fill it up and it took 12 more gals.  How does a 19 gal tank take 22 gals?  My gauge went to pegging completely right of the gauge past the full mark. Now I don’t really know how much gas I was adjusting it to so I siphoned 10 gals out and readjusted the rod a little less.  Seems to be and I hope it’s closer now but haven’t got the exhaust and a couple other things finished yet to try and run it down. Anyway maybe my experience will save someone else some trouble. Would have been nice if it just got made the same way as oem.


* Send Unit Inside.JPG (115.98 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1195 times.)

* Before Rod Bend.JPG (153.09 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1141 times.)

* Rod Bend.JPG (149.03 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1170 times.)
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